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Hand Craft Projects 


Northern High School, Detroit, Michigan 

Editor of "Toys and Useful Articles a Boy Can Make ', "Practical Construction Work for Home and School Shops*', 

"Bird Houses of Simple Construction" 

Drawings by the Author and A. M. Cornwell 

Book I 


Milwaukee, 'Wisconsin 

Copyright 1921 


This book is the first of a series whicli will include 
oyer 2,000 articles. Boys and others interested in work- 
ing with tools will find them a ^eat convenience. In- 
stead of arranging the articles in one expensive book, 
they will be written in a series of volumes, additional 
volumes being published from time to time. Each 
volume is to be sold at a moderate price and will make 
an inexpensive but very welcome gift to those inter- 
ested in hand work. 

The projects in this book are not all original, but 
are things that boys in my classes have made and enjoy 
making. Many of the suggestions and ideas were 
brought in by the boys themselves. 

The articles describing the projects have been made 
as sliort as possible in order that boys need not waste 
time reading long descriptions. 

Many of the models were excellent sellers in the 
Red Cross sales and considered attractive enough to be 
made a permanent exhibit at the Detroit Museum of 

Money invested in tools is not wasted. A good selec- 
tion will cost no more than a good bicycle, and if well 
cared for will last several generations. 

Parents who can interest their boys in tools and let 
them have a shop at home, will know where to find 

them evenings and many hours of worry will bo saved, 
as the boys might be out on the streets or In pool 
rooms. Moreover, the value of the useful articles they 
might make should be considered. The boy himself, 
no matter what vocation he follows later, will never 
regret the time spent in the shop with his tools. 

In these articles trade terms are used as often as 
possible to familiarize boys with their use in real 

It has been the author's ambition to have the draw- 
ings of the projects so made that very little explana- 
tion is necessary. 

An effort has been made in formulating the projects 
to eliminate the old hackneyed problems, and, although 
the same names are used, an examination of the draw- 
ings will show that each one is decidedly different and 
possesses some originality. 

Physical exercise is necessary for good health. Per- 
sons engaged in work requiring veo' little physical 
effort usually devote some time each day to calisthenics 
or other artificial exercise. Effort spent on construc- 
tive work with tools is more fascinating and is pro- 
ductive of the same results, thereby accomplishing a 
twofold purpose. 


"Keep the faculty of eifort alive within 
you with a little gratuitous exercise 
each day." 

— James. 


Shop Notes and Etiriuotte 7 

l/uuiber 8 

Personal Equipment S. 9 

Standards and Conventions 10. 11 

Construction Proljlenis 10, 12 

Common Joints 10, i:i 

Tools 14 

Commonly Used Hardware 15-20 

Shop Kinks and Information 1.5, 21 

Bits and Drills 21-2:! 

Brads, Screws and Fastenini^s 2.3. 24 

Sandpaper and Finish ■ 2,5 

Finish 2,5, 20 

Laying Out Tools 2C-2S 

Saws 2S, 21) 

Planes 28, 30 ,-!3 

Planing and Scoring Rules 30. 32, R3 

Worli Bench 34. 35 

Combination Bench Ilook 30, 37 

Toy Pig 3S, 39 

Child's Morris Chair 40. 41 

Cutting Board 42. 43 

Toy Cannon 44. 45 

Bath Koom Cup Holder 40, 47 

Skate Sharpener 48, 49 

Steam Engine .50,- 51 

Toy Elephant 52, ,53 

Feeding Bird 54, 55 

Flying Propeller 50, 57 

Potato Gun 58. ,59 

A Wooden Doll 60. 61 

A Thanksgiving Gobbler 02, 03 

Aeroplane Weathervane 64, 65 


.Small Cart an, 67 

Ued Cross Ambulance cm. i!;i 

Baby's Hocking Horse 70, 71 

,Tuniping .Tack 72, 73 

The Ilula naneers 74, 7.% 

Mechanical Duck 70, 77 

Scout Fireniaklng Set 7,s. 7i» 

Bob Sled jm_ si 

A High Spei'd Drill i<2, si 

Crumb Tray ^, 8.5 

Flag Ilidder ,s«, ^7 

Toy Uabliit 8.S. SO 

Target Pistol !K). 1(1 

.Tack Be Nimble Kj, ict 

Boy Scouts Heliograph !14, <(,"> 

(Jrouud Scratcher 00, 1)7 

Child's Snow Shovel lis, IKt 

Kites 100. 101 

Puzzles 102. 103 

Trench Mortar 104. 10.5 

Straddle Horse 106. 107 

The Bag Puncher lOS, 100 

Low Folding Table 110, 111 

Letter Hack 112, 113 

Silhouette Camera 114. 115 

Sewing Companion J16, IIT 

Ornamental Garden Sticks U.S. 119 

Mouse Trap 120. 121 

Boys Handy Wagon 122. l'-'3 

'I'ravelers Case 124. 12S 

Hallowe'en Fun Makers 120. 127 

Wind Mill Acrobat 128, 129 

Pin ami Ball Game 130, 131 

Page Page 

Sail Boat ,132, 133 Fly Trap 144, 145 

Chair Lami) 134, l.'!r> plant Box 14G, 147 

'•'-'^ ""•"^ Jf' ]■" Submarine '. 14S, 140 

Bull Dog 13S. 13!) , , , 

Christmas Tree Stand 140. 141 Phonograph Dancer loO. lol 

Baby Auto Car 142, 143 Telephone Screen 152, 1.53 


Shop Notes and Etiquette 

This work, to be done in tlie scliool or liome sliop, 
is for the purpose of training the hand to make what 
the mind and eye picture, and to teach the care and 
manipulation of common wood-working tools. 

All work should be done from working drawings, 
blue prints or sketches. Never begin a project for 
which you have no drawing without first making some 
kind of a sketch. 

Shop work is required in some schools for gradua- 
tion and some credit is given those with good marks 
wishing to take an engineering course. 

To obtain the best results each boy should be fur- 
nished with a bench suitable to his height and a sharp 
set of individual tools. It is then his business to keep 
them in this condition. Only selfish boys will use tools 
improperly and dull them for the other fellow to 
sharpen. It; is usually found that boys who do poor 
work are satisfied to work with dull tools. 

Any boy who is careless enough to saw into an iron 
vise, pound with the point of his plane, chop with a 
back saw, and bore holes and drive nails into his bench, 
will not make a valuable man to any employer. 

What would i contractor say if a man came lo hire 
out with a stool under one arm and his tools under Ihe 
other? But, how often do we see boys sitting on stools 
trying to piano and saw, and also trying to do work 
with a coat on! The first thing a boy does when getting 
into a game that requires exercise is to throw off his 
coat, so why not do the same in the shop? 

Talking, whistling and other unnecessary noises are 
not conducive to the best work. They are also annoy- 
ing to others and distract their attention from their 

Do not use the try square for a hammer, or a chisel 
for a screw driver, as others may wish to use the same 
tool and do not enjoy working with a dull tool any 
more than you do. 

Never use a hammer on a chisel handle, or to drive 
a piece through the dowel plate. The mallet should be 
used for these purposes. 

While all power machinery should be well guarded 
in any shop to prevent accidents, it Is best when 
machinery is in operation to keep at a safe distance. 
Do not depend upon the other fellow to care for your 
personal safety. You suffer the pain in case of accident. 



To avoid repetition, pages in the front of the hook 
will be devoted to general information. 


Lumber comes in different conditions known as 
dressed and undressed. If ordered undressed, it is just 
as it comes from the saw, rough on both sides and 
edges. If ordered S2S, (S meaning surfaced), both 
sides will be surfaced. If ordered S4S, both sides and 
edges will be surfaced or made smooth by the planer. 
If it is desired to have it finished further, specify that 
it is to be sanded on all sides and edges. 

When ordering lumber, make out your bill as fol- 
lows: First, give name of wood; second, number of 
pieces; third, thickness; fourth, width; fifth, length; 
and sixth, finish desired. For example: 
Red Oak 2 Pes. %" x 41/8" x 3' S4S To be sanded 

all sides 
Bass Wood 1 Pc. Vz" x 10" x 10' Rough 
Gum Wood 3 Pes. %" x 8" x 12' S2S 

The most common woods used for home and school 
bench work are bass wood, white pine, gum wood, red 
and white oak, black walnut, mahogany, red wood, red 
cedar and cypress. These are all easily worked and 
take desirable finishes. 

Yellow pine, spruce, hemlock, fir, cypress, birch and 
maple are used in the building trades. Most of these 
are coarse grained and split easily. 

Hickory is straight grained and very elastic. It is 
good for hammer handles, bows and arrows and other 
models that must bend without breaking. Other kinds 
of lumber may be more accessible in other localities. 
Cypress is a wood that will withstand dampness and 
is very good for plant boxes, etc., while gum and bass- 
wood absorb moisture and warp, hence are not satis- 
factory for outside use. 

Composition, wall or beaver board can often be used 
instead of lumber. 

Personal Equipment 

It is quite necessary that a woodworker protect his 
clothing from dust, dirt, stain, paint, grease, oil, etc., 
by some manner of covering. Of course, different kinds 
of work will require different kinds of dress. If pos- 
sible, old clothing may be worn, in which case the 
worker's body can easily assume any position and not 
be encumbered by excess clothing. With most clothing 
protectors it is not convenient to work in any other 
than a standing position. 

Plate 1 shows five boys differently attired. Tho 
first is wearing an apron which is sufficient covering 
for ordinary bench work; the second is equipped with 
coveralls which make the best possible covering for 
any kind of work, especially wood turning where dust, 
shavings, oil and stain are likely to fly on the shirts, 
shoulders and collar. It also protects the back of the 


Plate 1. 

trousers, shirt, etc. The shop coat and cap, number 
three, are very good as they give nearly as much 
protection as the coveralls. The second and third 
give protection to the worker who might back into a 
painted article not yet dry. The short coat and a^)ron 
are good hut they do not give the protection afforded 
l>y the second and third. The short coat, number nve, 
if used with overalls would he good, but when worn 
alone gives no protection below the waist. 

A light weight cloth cap will keep the hair out of 
the wearer's eyes and also shade them. It will also 
protect the hair from dust, dirt and oil. The boys in 
the picture arc wearing paper caps given away for 
advertising purposes. 

Each worker should be provided with a lead pencil, 
not too soft, a pocket knife and a two foot, four fold 
rule. It is not good practice to borrow pencils. 

A towel and some good soap should be kept in the 

When on certain jobs of white wood to be varnished, 
it is quite necessary to keep the hands clean. 

To provide good working conditions the shop should 
bo well lighted and not too warm. Sixty degrees is a 
good temperature. 



Standards and Conventions 

It is unfortunate that the schools of the country 
have not established a standard set of conventions for 
representing articles by drawings. Those who may use 
conventions different from those used in the following 
drawings will have no difficulty in understanding the 
drawings if they will refer to the standards indicated 

After an investigation of the standards used in over 
fifty of the largest and most important factories and 
institutions in the country, and then compiling a book- 
let which was submitted to these concerns for criticism, 
it was found that these standards were most generally 
used, and so were adopted by the drawing department 
of the Detroit Public Schools. 

The conventional lines are shown on Plate 2 the 
exact weight, length and spacing they should be made 
on a drawing, but on the drawings of the projects they 
will appear lighter in weight due to the fact that they 
were made the correct weight on the original drawing, 
but when the cut was made, were reduced. 

The illustrations with dimensions show the proper 
method of dimensioning and indicating notes for dif- 
ferent parts. It is proper to make the full or half 
arrow on the leader lines. 

Note that in the section the bolt is not cross hatched. 
This method should be followed in drawing bolts, nails, 

screws, etc., where sections are made to more clearly 
indicate the construction of a part. 

Perspective, isometric and cabinet sketches are used 
to show the assembled model, and the relation of the 
parts. These sketches picture the model better than 
the mechanical drawing. 

Construction Problems 

Plate 3 illustrates the methods for making the 
common layouts used in constructing the parts of the 
following projects. 

The quadrant is 90 degrees or one-quarter of a circle. 

The semicircle is 180 degrees or one-half of a circle. 

Other constructions show methods for locating cen- 
ters, finding the lengths of arcs, dividing a line into a 
certain number of equal parts, and others that will be 
of use in making this series of models. 

The hexagon and octagon are shapes that are com- 
monly used for tabouret tops, lamp bases, etc. 

It is often quite necessary to know how to lay out a 
pentagon, star, oval, ellipse, and to make a polygon of 
any number of sides desired. 

Common Joints 

Plate 4 is not intended to give all the different 
kinds of joints in use, but merely shows the kinds most 
commonly used and which will be used on the follow- 
ing projects. 



Standards ''~° Conventions 














\ ™^ 






OR -o?*--- ^ ^ 










*\76\- THir 






Ow|rtO«-*<vr . 90' 

5£MiCiRCt.£ -ISO" 


To Fif^Q CehiTSf O" 
Oiven Square 

Draw Diagonal.^ AB 
AnO CD li^TERSecTiOi^ 
O Is Ccnter Of Squar£ 

To 8istcT A Given Ai^glc 

With O A3 >^ CENTea. 
A/v£> A^vr Radius. PfiAW 
Afic A8 From Points I 
And ^ Ora^ Ancs Intcr- 
SEOTINO J^T 3 L//V£ 03 
BfsacTS The Ah/aue 

To Dt^Aw An Afic Through 
3 Poii-jt^ not In Ti-il 
SAfiE Straight Line. 

FROrj A A NO 8 

In tersec T/nO 
At I -aNP £_ANO 
FROn & ANO c 
L iNE 5 From 
if, 3 Through 
'ENTER Of Arc 

At 3 AfjDt 
I TmRouoi 
-3 C/v£ O. 

To OiviOE A Giv£.N 
Into Any NunBtR Of Equa. 
Pa r tj (5a y s) 


From a 
, ^ ^ A/^v 

A 7 a 9 ^ Angle. 
Af^t" Convenient Measure- 

rltNT LAy Oe^ fiEQulREO 

3RACE.5 At /, e. J, a, J. OfiAiN 
S3 Lines Drawn From *?. 
3. 3 AN0 I PAffALLE.L. To S3 
OiviDf. AB Into 5 EqualP^rts 


Atj Arc S&ing Given^ 
To FiNO A Straight 
LinC Of Equal L£ivcth 

Divide arc 
AB Into 
^ SriALL 


Greater Accuracy Lay 
Off Same Divisions Om 
Straight Line Oiving 
AC Equal To Arc A& 

Inscribed Figure s 

To PRAW A Hejcagon 

Set Dividers 
Of Desired 
5iOE And 
CiRCi-E From 
A AND 3 With Same 
Padius_ Draw Afics 
Cutting Circle At /.3.3 
Ano «? Connect These 
Points For Pesireo 

To Draw Ai^Octagon 

Draw ABCO 
Local To En 
Closing SouAttE 
FaoM A e. C 
AND D, With Radius AG. 
DRAW ARCS Cutting 
Square at Points /, ^, 
3, tf 3 £ 7 An/D 8 Connect 
These Poults For 
P€5lREO Octaoon 

To Draw a Pentagon 

Describe Re- 
quired Circle 
Find Center 
Of Radius OA 
At FaoM 
3 With Pad 
Be Cut PiA AE At P 
FRor-j C With Rap CP 
Cut Circle At I and ^ 
From /and 2. With Same 
Pad Get 3 ano ^3. I C a 3 
■? Is RtouiREO Pentagon 

To PfiAw A 
Five Point eo STAfi 

Di vide 
Into Five. 
Parts As For Pentagon 
Connect Points as 


On Dia AB Pes - 
CRiOE A Circle 
Frqi-j Center C 
Draw CP^ Perren- 
DiCuLAf* To A& 
Df^AW APF A'^o &PE 
From a Draw 
ARC 8F Ano FfiOM 3 PRAw 
E F A<3BF E Is ReociREO Oval 

To Dr. 


A& ->«(. CP 
Are ffAJOR Anq 
Minor Ares 
Make Of ai^cOe 
= To AB - CP 


OC. = To ^ OF 
Draw Fna . F03 EHt a^d 
EGa From £ ano F Draw arcs 
lO^ Afvo ^C3 From g a/-jd m 

DRAn f:\RGS 2 3 AfJO I A^ 


To Inscribe A /Secular Polygon Of 
vr Number Of Sides In A Given Ci»Ci.E 

PiviDE OiA A 7 Into Same 
No Of Parts As Polygon 
Has Sides £xT£/vo Dia 
CD Making CF ^ To ^ Of 
Ct Through F and < 
The Second Division On 
A 7 . PpAYv F C>, Cutting 
Circumference At o 
^ The Chof>o AC Is 0/v£ 

5ioe Of Thc Reqw^e-O /=t><_>-..o'/ 



Common joints 




The procedure for laying out the Joints is not given 
because there are many volumes in every library en- 
tirely devoted to joinery. These should be consulted 
freely for any information concerning joint construc- 
tion which it may be necessary to have'. The Bruce 
Publishing Company will at any time be glad to recom- 
mend the best and latest volumes on manual arts work. 

The dado joint is used in making book racks, settin;:^ 
tabouret tops into the legs, etc. The half lap joint is 
used in constructing spreaders, making braces, etc. 
This joint may also be made by making the cutouts 
on the edges of the pieces as well as on the working 

A dowel joint may be used in any kind of a top 
where several pieces are to be used, or instead of the 
mortise and tenon joint in joining a rail or a spreader 
to a leg. 

The mortise and tenon joint is most commonly used 
in table and chair construction. 

A butt or rabbet joint is made use of in box con- 
struction, and a lap or miter joint in making picture or 
other frames. 


Teachers and others who work with boys are often 
asked by boys and parents, especially around Christ- 
mas, to makf a list of tools that might be recommended 
for the home shop. Tools make excellent Christmas 

and birthday gifts. The average boy Is not familiar 
with tools, hence does not understand quality, pnd does 
not know what to select if the choice is left to him. 

Usually the person who does the buying knows little 
more than the boy. The result is that the gift consists 
of a nice looking tool box filled with cheap tools — some 
that may never be used at all and others that were 
selected more for looks than the practical use that 
might be made of them. 

Expensive tools are the cheapest in the end. The 
best way to select a set is to inquire of experienced tool 
workers as to what make is best and then select each 
tool individually. By adding new tools now and then, 
and taking good care of them, one soon acquires a com- 
plete equipment without noticing the amount of money 

The following is a list recommended for the home 

1 Jack plane 14" 1 Combination hacksaw, 

1 6" Try square ^ip and crosscut 

1 Cross cut saw 20"— 10 1 Turning saw 

point 1 Nail set 

1 Rip saw 20"— 8 point 1 Pencil compass 

1 Steel rule 12" 1 Hammer, Maydole 13 

1 Carpenter's square 1 Spoke shave 

1 Wood rasp 1 Jack knife 



1 Oil stone 

1 'A" Chisel 

1 1" Auger bit 

1 Marking gauge 

1 %" Auger bit 

1 ,=c" Twist drill 

1 >2" Auger bit 

1 Ratchet bit brace 

1 %" Auger bit 

1 Rectangular scraper 

1 V-i" Auger bit 

1 Bit file 

1 Rose countersink 

1 Screwdriver 

1 1" Chisel 

1 Pair pliers 

1 1/2" Chisel 

1 Screwdriver bit 

1 %" Chisel 

1 3 sided saw file 

Commonly Used Hardware 

It has been the author's experience that few people 
know the trade names for comniQn hardware and spe- 
cial tools. Considerable time and parley would be 
saved in the hardware store if the purchaser knew the 
trade names of the articles he wished to buy. 

One place where this should be taught every boy 
is in the manual training class. For this reason sev- 
-eral pages are here devoted to cuts of hardware and 
special tools that are found .in most households and 
are used in the average shop' some time or other. These 
cuts, however, show only one article of each variety, 
using the trade name to identify it. Many of the 
articles can be purchased in a variety of sizes and 

Plate 5 showing special tools contains a tew that 
will be found very convenient for doing certain jobs. 
The rotary head glazier's hammer is used for driving 

glazier's points. Two coping saw blades are shown, one 
having a pin in each end for fastening, and the other 
simply an eye turned. The cornering tool is for finish- 
ing corners uniformly, and the tracing wheel is for 
tracing patterns. Circular snips are used for cutting 
circular pieces, and pinking irons for making fancy 
scallops on edges of certain materials. 

Plate G, cabinet trimmings, and Plate 7, hasp locks 
and hinges, give (\\ule a complete selection of require- 
ments for the amateur craftsman. 

It is unfortunate that screw hooks and eyes are not 
named according to their shape, but instead they are 
listed by numbers which vary in different catalogs. 
Plate 8. 

Plate 9 shows many different articles in hardware 
required in different parts of the household. 

Shop Kinks and Information 

Use a brad awl to bore for fine brads to prevent 
splitting the piece. 

Do not put water in hot lead— it will explode. 

To do soldering the iron must first be tinned. File 
the point to brighten the surfaces, then heat the Iron 
and rub in a hole on a piece of salamoniac containing 
a drop of solder. If properly tinned, the iron will 
appear bright and shiny. The iron must be k"pl clean 
and well tinned. A good fiux must bo used, and the 
metal to be soldered must be thoroughly scraped and 



*^^^=:^::^==— =^ mZ 

---liners' ^«a»=^ lettering brush 

Glass Cutter Round Nose Side Cu t ting Pl iers 

Bar Cabine t Cla mp 




Mending Plate 

Corner Brace 

Cabinet trimmings brass boxcorncrs 


Glass KNOBS 


y^ Box HANDLE 

POL I SHED Brass Knob Drawer handle 



Drawer Pull 

Porcel ain Shutter Knob DropDrawcrPuu 
Box Pull 





Fric tion 




Stlel Hinge 5l iOes 

Hasps 'L ocks-hinces 


Box Ca tch 



Suit Case LOCK 





Ball Tip loose fim Hinge 

T Hinge 

Friction Hinges 

Strap Hinge 



ScP£ M HrioK 




Scffcvi Eye 

■' ^\\ I i f^ 


Brass Cup Hook 


^(^^ — .^^-^ 


Ring And Staple razor Strop Hooh 


Hitching Ring 


..-.J ^' '^ Picture NooH \J-<^ \j? 


Hook audeve 

Robe hook 

Brass Screw Ring 




Co A tAnd Ha t Hook 

Floor Hook 

Robe Hook 







Shelf Rest 

DOOR Button Corruca ted Fas tener 

Turn BUCKLE double eye Bolt 

E.LB0V1 Catches 


Square Plate 

Sliding Or Dome 


VJROucH T Lock 

Cast viasher 

AwN/NG Pulleys 

Screw Pulleys 






Tinners' Rivet 


COPPER Rivets, Burrs 

\ mi. ^ 


Slotted Clmch Rivet 

Rivet SetAndHeader 



sanded, and covered with the flux. To do good work 
the joint must be heated to the melting point of the 

Never use anything but a pencil for laying out a 
bevel or a chamfer. 

When planing a bevel or chamfer, hold the work in 
a hand screw. 

Use a washer cutter for making wooden wheels. 

For wheels on small carts use wooden button molds. 

When driving screws in end grain, first bore a hole 
at right angles to the path of the screw and drive a 
plug in the hole. The threads of the screw must pass 
through the plug. 

Use bank pins for joining toys as they can be ob- 
tained in any length. 

Before gluing two surfaces, first score with the 
point of a knife diagonally across the surfaces. This 
makes an opening for the glue to work into. 

Always wipe off surplus glue with a damp cloth 
before it sets. 

When pulling nails with a hammer, place a block 
between the work and the hammer head. 

Place the coping saw blade in the frame with the 
teeth pointing toward the handle. For best results use 
Vs inch pin end blades. 

Bits and Drills 

Bits and drills, (Plate 10), are used for making 
holes in different kinds of material. It seems tiultc 
difficult for most boys to tell from the numbers on the 
shank of the bit what size hole that particular bit will 
bore. This is very ea.«:y if you will keep in mind the 
following information. 

Auger bits are numbered in sixteenths and are 
graded in size from :i 16 to 20 IC in., or l'/, in. Twist 
drills or drill bits are numbered in thirty-seconds and 
range from 3 32 to 18/32 in., or 9, IG in. Drill points 
are numbered in sixty-fourths and range from 4 G4, or 
1 IG in., to 11/64 in. 

Electricians' bits run in length from 18 to 24 In., 
and bore % to % in. Extensions from 20 to 30 in. can 
be added to this length. 

Expansive bits u.sually have two sets of cutters and 
will bore % to 4 in. in diameter. 

Forstner or center bits are used for boring in thin 
wood that is liable to split. Forstner bits are used for 
boring holes nearly through a piece where it Is neces- 
sary that the spur should not come through on the 
other side. 

Countersinks are made in different varieties and cut 
at different angles to countersink wide and shallow or 
deep and narrow. A handle to fit the shank of a coun- 


Bits ^^ Drills. 

AuotR Bit 

Smor-t OowtL Bit 


£>ou9l£ 3t/vcrL£ ThRF.AP 

TmREAQ Scpaw Point 



Or (l l Fop Wood 

DfiiLL For M^t/^l Or Wood 

T\NiS7 Drill FOR MaT^L 



tersink, bit, drill or screwdriver is convenient whore 
only a little work is to be done. 

Bit flies are necessary for sharpening bits and arc 
specially cut, having some sides left smooth. Washer 
cutters are made for cutting washers and gaskets of 
leather, rubber and other material, but may be used for 
making wooden wheels. • Bit gages are made in dif- 
ferent styles and are convenient as they stop the bit 
cutting at a certain depth. 

Many varieties of braces, hand drills and automatic 
drills are made for holding bits, etc., for ordinary 
drilling. Special types are also made to be used for 
drilling where It is impossible or awkward lo use the 
ordinary common or ratchet brace. 

Brads, Screws and Fastenings 

Most fastenings come in different sizes and lengths. 
For the purpose of determining these sizes, certain 
gages are made. Plate 11. 

It is necessary to know the sizes of nails, screws, 
bolts, etc., as holes of the proper size must be bored 
for these fastenings, otherwise small parts will split 
by having the fastenings forced into them. 

Rusty screws, bolts and nuts are difficult to remove. 
To remove screws, apply a red hot iron to the head of 
the screw, then use the screwdriver while the screw is 
still hot. For rusty bolts or nuts, apply kerosene and 

allow it to stand until the rust has softened. Try to 
start with a wrench, but if it does not start easily, rap 
on one end with a hammer, or a hammer and cold 
chisel. This will usually start a ruste<l nut or bolt 
without twisting off the bolt. 

It is ncHiessary to countersink for flat head screws 
but not for round head screws. 

Nails come in different sizes from two penny lo 
sixty penny. Those larger than si.xty penny are known 
as spikes. Following is a list of lengths: 

2d 1" No. 15 wire lOd 3" No. 9 wire 

3d I'/i" No. 14 wire 12d 314" No. 9 wire 

4d V/z" No. 121/3 wire 16d 3'/i" No. 8 wire 

5d 1%" No. 12 1/2 wire 20d 4" No. 6 wire 

6d 2" No. 111/2 wire 30d 4^4" No. 5 wire 

7d 2'A" No. 111/4 wire 40d 5" No. 4 ,wlre 

8d 2V2" No. IQi/i wire 50d 51/2" No. 3 wire 

9d 2%" No. 10 '/i wire 60d 6" No. 2 wire 

Box nails run from 4d to lOd; casing and finishing 
from 4d to Id; flooring from 8d to lOd, and brads 
from % in. No. 20 to 3 in. No. 11. Screws run in vari- 
ous sizes from 14 in. No. to 4 in. No. 24. 

Tacks, staples, lag screws, bolts and nuts come In 
different lengths and gages. Screws, bolts, set screws, 
nuts, etc., var>' according to the number of threads per 




Brads. Screws ^^ Fastenings. 



Common Wire. 


^MOQ-TH Box Screw Nail 




Chair St^T 

Flooring Brad | 

Rubber Heap 

Shingl e 

CiOAR Box Brads Furniture 


Flat head Oval head 

FiouND Heap 

Dowel ' 

'f ^=^"" y£^s& 

Hand ff^/L 


1 1 





Double Pointed 

Escutcheon Pins 





C~~. cz 

Poultry- Net Blind 


Stove Bolts 

Flat Head Round Head 

Iron Cap Screw 

Iron Set Screw 

Machine Screws 

mms^ wms^ MMy£ 

Flat head Round Head Fillester head 


Sandpaper and Finish 

Sandpaper is made by sifting specially graded sand 
or other abrasive on paper, the surface of which has 
been covered with glue. It is used to wear down sur- 
faces and to give a smooth finish. Tlie sand used is 
graded from very fine, four naught (0000), to K. and 
coarse from 1 to 3. 

Always sandpaper with the grain of the wood. When 
sanding rough wood it is quite convenient to place the 
sandpaper on a l)lock. The block may he made of wood, 
or better still, several thicknesses of beaver or wall 
board glued together. A block of heavy felt is very 
good as it will conform to irregular surfaces. The 
sandpaper placed on the fingers alone should only be 
used in rubbing down a finished surface. When start- 
ing to sandpaper a piece of work, first use coarse paper 
and finish with very fine. A few drops of oil applied to 
the last piece used will produce good results. 

To preserve wood and other materials from the 
elements, and to add beauty, they must be treated in 
some way. This is known to the trade as finish. 

As It is quite difficult to apply finish without splash- 
ing and spattering during the process of mixing and 
applying, a special place for the work is necessary. If 
the work is done at the bench, the bench top should be 
covered with papers, for it is only a very careless 

person who will mar the top of his work bench wllli 
paint, stain or varnish. 

It is not always convenient to wear gloves to pro- 
tect the hands from the stain, but if soap is forced 
under the nails by scratching on the bar before begin- 
ning the work, the nails will be kept clean. If the 
nails are clean, turpentine, gasoline or soap and hot 
water will put the hands in good condition. By using 
waxed paper, such as comes wrapped about bread, to 
hold rubbing materials, the hands will be protected. 

The nature of tlie object, the use to be made of it 
and where it will be placed or used, will determine the 
kind and degree of finish required. 


The article may be painted, enameled, stained, shel- 
laced, varnished, oiled, waxed, etc., but the number of 
coats or polish necessary will depend upon the require- 
ments of the object. 

Tlie spreading of paint and enamel, and applying a 
rubbed or a French polish, requires practice. For In- 
formation on the mixing, application and the amount 
of finish, paint catalogs or books on finish should be 
consulted. Free books can be obtained at most paint 
stores, and there are many books at the public library. 

Most models are finished by first preparing the sur- 
face with a plane and sandpaper. 



The most simple finish is the oil finish, produced by 
the application of boiled linseed oil cut with a little 

Good results have been obtained by using lor 
mahogany, Acme Dark Mahogany No. 36, Acme Walnut 
No. 35. and Bridgeport R Y Golden Oak Stain. A good 
walnut or oak stain can be made by mixing the follow- 
ing — 3 parts lamp black ground in oil; 2 parts boiled 
oil; 1 part burnt umber, and G parts turpentine. 

If provided with cans of the following paint — white, 
black, red, yellow and blue — any color can be produced. 
For example, red and yellow make orange; yellow and 
blue make green, and red and blue make violet. By 
adding white to any of these colors a tint of that color 
may be obtained. For example, green plus white gives 
light green. 

Do not paint one color joining another until the 
first has dried. If you do they will run together. 

Always apply shellac to knots before giving the 
priming coat of paint. 

Show card colors dry quickly, and if covered with a 
quick drying white varnish arc excellent for decorating 

Paint, striping and lettering brushes should not be 
left to harden. Wash out in gasoline or gold dust and 
hot water. If set away, see that the bristles of the 
brushes are covered with water, oil or kerosene. 

Laying-Out Tools 

To do good work easily and rapidly, a workman, be 
he man or boy, must have tools and they should be good 
ones. Too often one sees a worker using tools for pur- 
poses for which they were never intended. 

Rules come in quite a variety of forms but those 
illustrated are used more than any others. The one 
foot steel rule is very convenient. Because of its thin- 
ness, measurements can be laid off along its edge very 
accurately. The two foot, four,fold rule folds com- 
pactly and can be carried in the pocket. 

Work that does not require great accuracy may be 
marked out with a medium grade pencil, the point of 
which should be sharp. Where great accuracy is re- 
quired as in the laying out of joints, a sharp pointed 
knife is essential. The sloyd knife is convenient but 
the jack knife can be carried in the pocket and will 
answer all purposes. 

The try square is essential for testing for square- 
ness, that is, to see if adjacent sides are at right angles 
to each other. It is also used for laying out lines 
drawn across the grain and for testing evenness of 
surfaces. Do not use it as a hammer. The framing 
square is larger and is used for work that is too large 
for the try square. 

The bevel is similar to the tr>' square. Unlike It, 
however, it has a movable blade that can be fastened in 

TLATF. 12 


Laying-Out Iools. 

/■Ft. Stcel Rule. 

FR/>niNa 3ou/if>c 






i -uiuiqujj ii 



*?) Wk 

Sloyd Knife 

Jack Knife 

Tffv- Souaoe 





Madking CaC£ 

■ Thumb ScKeyv 


Beam lcos 



any position. It is us<'(l lor laying out and testing 

The marking gage is used lor laying out lines along 
the grain of a piece of wood. The head moves along 
the beam and can be fastened by the thumb screw at 
any distance from the spur. As received from the 
factory, the spur is set accurately with reference to the 
graduations on the beam, but from use and sharpening 
it will not remain so. To insure accuracy, the rule 
should be used to check each setting. It is advisable 
in school shops to plane off the graduations and require 
the students to measure the setting. 

To lay out arcs and circles the pencil compass and 
dividers are used. Both legs of the dividers are metal 
while one leg of the compass holds a lead or compass. 
The compass can generally be used but for more accu- 
rate work the dividers are necessary. Plate 12. 


A saw has a definite use that no other cutting tool 
can be put to and accomplish the work as well. 

Saws are used for cutting many kinds of material, 
but the ones considered here are for wood only. They 
are of two general classes, crosscut and rip. The cross- 
cut is used for cutting across the grain ami the rip saw 
with the grain. 

In order to accomplish the different cutting, it is 
necessary to have teeth of- special shapes. Plate 13. In 

Pigs. 1 and 2 we see the teeth of a crosscut saw from 
two positions. It will be seen from these figures that the 
edges of the teeth are similar to a series of knife points, 
and when forced across the grain the fibers are cut off. 
Note also that the points are bent alternately to the 
right and left. The bending of the teeth is called set- 
ting. Pig, 5. Note Pig. 3. As the blade of the saw is 
forced through the wood a saw kerf or cut must be left 
wider than the thickness of the blade. Otherwise the 
saw will bind and stick in the wood. The parts cut off 
called sawdust are carried out of the kerf by the motion 
of the saw. 

The rip saw teeth have a different action to perform, 
so are of a different shape. The rip saw cuts with the 
grain instead of across it. The cutting action is quite 
different. It might be compared to the cutting action 
of a chisel. 

Compare the shapes of the teeth in Fig. 2 and Pig. 8. 
Examine Pig. 7 carefully as it shows the cutting action. 

Pig. 9 shows a handsaw as generally referred to. 
It may be cross or rip. The saw shown in Pig. 10 is 
also a handsaw but is referred to as a back saw. The 
metal strip across the back stiffens it for accurate work. 


The plane is one of the most important tools used in 
wood work. It is the most complicated and requires 




Edge Of Cf^osscur 

3^W FFiOM ^ao¥£ 



Showing BtvEu /^f^o 
3h^pe . Note How 
Th£.\^ ^RE. Filed. 


H^ND^^w ' (CfiasscuT Or ^/f>). 


Hoyv Cf^osscuT Teeth Operate 
iN Cutting. 



Qack Saw. 



Looking Down On Back 
Of Sav\/ Showing Set Of Teeth. 

View Of Cutting 
£PGE Of Rip Saw 
FFiOt^ Aeo¥£ Ano 

^T j^N AA^OLE. 


^CTio/v Of Rip 
S^w Teeth. 

Rip Saw Heth 
Showing Shape , - 
Filed Straight 



much skill to use it ijropiTly and to keep it in good 
condition for use. 

Old style planes were made of wood and adjusted by 
striking with a hammer. It was also necessary to joint 
the face from time to time. 

There are many kinds of planes designed for many 
purposes but the principle of their operation is the 
same as the bench planes shown in Plate 14. The 
planes which are most commonly in use are the jack, 
smooth, jointer and block planes. Should it be possible 
to have only one plane in your equipment, let it be the 
Jack plane. Buy extra blades for it and sharpen them 
to shapes to take the place of the other planes. 

The use of these different planes may be described 
as follows: The jack plane is used for removing stock 
in rather large quantities, that is, for making the first 
or roughing cuts. It is about 15 in. long. The jointer 
is from 20 to 26 in. long and is used to straighten sur- 
faces. Being quite long it will only cut on the high 
spots, thereby gradually bringing an uneven surface to 
one that is true. The smooth plane is 9 or 10 in. long 
and used only for smoothing surfaces. It can be used 
on irregular surfaces on account of the shortness of 
the bed. The block plane is designed for use on end 
grain, that is, at right angles to the general direction 
of the grain. 

The construction of the planes is shown by a sec- 
tional view showing all the parts in position, and the 

smaller parts are shown separately. The plane iron and 
plane iron cap, when fastened together, are known as 
the double plane iron. For ordinary work the cap 
should not be set farther than -{g in. from the edge of 
the plane iron. For cross grained wood make the dis- 
tance less. 

The lever cap holds the plane iron in position in the 
plane proper. Note the cam action when the small 
lever is forced down into position. The lever cap screw 
regulates the amount of pressure exerted on the plane 

Turning the adjusting nut forces the plane iron in 
or out according to the amount of shaving it is desired 
to cut. The lateral adjusting lever adjusts the plane 
iron across the throat or mouth of the plane so the 
shaving will be even in thickness throughout its width. 

Planing and Scoring Rules 

First Method 

1 Plane broad surface. 

Mark 1 

2 Plane edge. Mark 2 

Cut to length. Square 
other end. Mark 6 

Second Method 

Gage width. Plane other 1 Plane broad surface. 

edge. Mark 3 
Gage thickness. 

Mark 4 
Square one end. 

Mark 1 
Plane. 2 Plane edge. Mark 2 

3 Plane one end square. 
Mark 5 Mark 3 





■SdCT,0/\i^L l//fkV O^ ^LAI^E. 

U/KaNE. HANOLt 46FfK>0 AOjust- 
/?- Knob ff^C SCA£W 

^b-HANOce &OL.T 41 hanole a^d 

I4'KnOG ' KfsiOO 30LT 

i5'Plane 46'^f9oo Adjust- 

HA/>iOLt 3c/few INO PLATe. 

ib-^ANC Bottom 49- f^fK>o adjust- 



4 Gage thickness. Plane. 6 Gage width. Plane edge. 

Mark 4 Mark 6 

5 Cut to length. Piano end. 

Mark 5 

Scoring Rules 

1 Hold beam on 2, draw 2 Hold beam on 1, draw 

across 1. across 2. 

3 Hold beam on 1, draw 4 Hold beam on 2, draw 

across 3. across 4. 

To get a piece of wood to certain definite dimen- 
sions, it is necessary that the work be done in a 
systematic manner. To work otherwise will not obtain 
desired results. 

Select the better broad face and plane smooth and 
true. Plate 15. Test as Fig. 1 and Fig. 2, also diago- 
nally, and lay on a flat surface to test for wind. It 
should lay flat and not rock. This is called the -work- 
ing face and should be marked 1. It is from this face 
that all future measuring should be done and on it 
layouts should be made. 

Next plane one edge straight and square with sur- 
face number one. To test for straightness hold blade 
of the try square lengthwise on the edge. For square- 
ness, hold the beam of the square against surface num- 

ber one with the blade extending across the edge as in 
Fig. 3. Mark the edge 2. 

Now set the marking gage to the width of the fin- 
ished piece, and with the head resting against surface 
number 2 gage a line the entire length of the piece on 
surface number one. Plane to line, test as for side 2 
and mark number 3. 

The fourth step is to reduce to thickness. Gage on 
surfaces 2 and 3 the thickness from 1. Plane off sur- 
plus stock and mark number 4. 

One end should now be sawed. Follow the scor- 
ing rules. Hold the beam of the try square against 
surface number 2 with the blade extending across num- 
ber 1. With a knife score a line across this surface. 
Next, holding the beam against the surface number 1, 
score across 2 and then 3. Then, holding the beam on 
surface number 2, score across 4. If your work is accu- 
rate the lines will meet so as to be continuous around 
the piece. Saw to line. 

Measure the desired length, score around the piece 
and saw as for the first end. 

While the first method is generally used, another 
method that will give very excellent results to begin- 
ners is indicated above. 



Steps In Planing. 


_f_- Plane Oi^e Broad SufiFAce 
SnooTH And True Test ^s Snot/^N 
In Fio I AND Fic 2. A Third Test 
Is Across D/aoonals. Hark One. 

Fio. I. 

Step ^ - Plane One £oo£ 
Stra/oht, And Square W/th 
One. Hold Beam Of .Square 
Against One, Blade Across 
Two. See Fig- 3. Mark Two. 

Step 3 — Oaoe Foq \A/iotm. 
Set Head Against Tivo 
A/vo Gace On One. Plane 
To Line . See Fig. 4. Mark 3. 

Step d — Cage For Thickness. 
Set Head Against One And 
Cage On Two And Three. Plane 
To Line . Mark a. 


Fig. 4. 


Step S — Saw One End. Set 
BEAn Of Square' Against Two 
And Scope Across One, Fig. 5. 
Next Set Beam Against One 
And Score ^Across TWo And 
Three , Fig. 6. Score Across Four 
With Beai~> On Two, Then Saw. 

Step 6 — /Measure For 
Length. Score Acrqss 
Surfaces ■^s In Step 5 
And Saw To Length. 




This liench cun he niatlc liy the average boy. The vise 
screw can be purchaser] at any hanlware stiire for (10 cents. 
A metal bench stop will be found convenient. The lumber 
need not be any partlcuhir kind, some of the dimensions may 
be changed to suit lumber you have on hand. 

The legs are of the proper length for the average 12 or 
14 year old boy, l)ut may be made longer to suit conditions. 

After getting the legs to the required size and shape, get 
out parts I and braces C, parts J and D, and the cross 
pieces which support the shelf. When these are cut to size, 
they may be assembled. The shelf may next be cut and fas- 
tened to the supports. l*^or the top, get liard wood, cut to 
size, and attadi to the frame, togetlier with the back apron E. 

I'arts B anil F will also give better service if nunic of 
hard wood. B Is made of four pieces held together with 
screws. F should be fitted to B before the pieces making up 
B are finally assembled. Fasten F to A, which should be 
made of hard wood. Hold the assembled pieces, F and A, 
in jjroper position on D and mark on the latter the location 
for the hole for the vise screw. Bore the required hole, then 
locate the petition of B underneath the top and fasten. 

A vise handle can be made from a piece of broom handle. 
Bore two small holes through the haniUe near each enil, place 
in position in the vise screw, and secure by driving pegs 
through the holes. 

The bench may be left natural, or it may be painted or 
oiled as desired. 




Front Apron 




-■ — r- 


Rear Apron 






* — T 




I// -^ \\l J 



Work Bench 

. T"r >''^,!"^. 

'^ LJJ 


^H r- 



Hake Four 




Make Four 




Accuntc work Is absolutely neci^ssary. Evory piece nuist 
1)0 ir.adt' to exact lUmenslons, all comers must be perfectly 
square, and the various pieces must be located accurately with 
reference to each other. 

Hard wood is the best material to use. (Jet out ;ill 
I)iocos to the dimensions indicated. 

First assemble miter box, observing directions on the 
drawing concerning location of screws. We now have a prob- 
lem of laying out an angle of 45 degrees. The following 
method will be found practical and not hard to understand : 
On the bottom of box lay out very accurately a square of a 
size equal to width of box, commencing at a point IVs" from 
the end. Carry the locations of corners thus established, by 
means of a try sqtmre, across sides of box to the upper edges. 
Saw from corner to corner very carefully. The result should 
be an accurate miter. 

Next fasten parts C and D together. Part B may next 
be fastened in place, and finally the miter box should be fas- 
tened to its position on C 

Tart A should be cut so the end grain of the piece will 
be next to end of miter box. As the length of a piece of 
wood is always measured lengthwise of the grain, you will 
have, in this case, a piece wider than it is long. Fasten A 
in position so the space between it and the miter box will be 
cquiil to the thickness of a saw blade. 

Finally, bore the hole for hanging bench hooli up out of 
the way. 

The miter box is not large, but is large enough for a 
great many uses. It is used for sawing at angles of 45 de- 
grees, such as the joints for a picture frame. 

As a bench hook, the device is used for sawing the ends 
of boards square. Lay flat on bench, as shown ia sketch. 
Place board against miter box. The sawing is done in the 
space between miter box and part A. 

To use as a shooting board, reverse position ;unl turn 
over. Place stock against B, turn plane on side resting on the 
ledge. By permitting stock to extend l>eyond B Jilightly, anu 
moving plane forward and backward on the ledge, very 
accurate work can be done. 




C.4 I 














""^M Parts fo be fasfened together wi/h scretvs. 
Locate so screv^s \^i/l not come /n sav\/ 
Kerts. Countersink a/ 1 ho/e^ tve//. 







The first step Is to lay out your pattern for the various 
parts. Use thin cardboard for this. Squares should bo laid 
out as showu in the drawing and the outline traced in so tlie 
lines touch the squares in the same places thoy do In the 
drawing. When you are satisfied with your outlines, cut to 
shai'e with a pair of sharp shears. 

The next step is to lay the patterns on the wood fruin 
which the pig is to lie made, then trace ari.uud them. Th;^ 
hardist part will be the cutting to shape, especially the body. 
A band saw is the best tool for this, but as most boys will 
not have one available, the cutting will have to be done with 
a turning saw, or if you are very, very careful, you may be 
able In use a coping saw, though the stoclt is almost too heavy 
for this tool. 

Cut the various parts to shape and bore holes for thp 
strews. Great care must lie taken to see that holes on oppo- 
site sides of the pieces are exactly in linn with each other. 
Next sand all the pj.its and then assemble. 

At this point make your measurements for the grooves 

in the cart. No measurements are given for the reason that 
the distance between the l"gs might vary. If the toy is lirst 
assembled and the measurements then taken from it, iess 
difficulty will be encountered. 

The painting of the toy can best be accomplished by 
taking it apart and working up each piece sepai-ately. Tie a 
piece of string to each part, then paint and hang up to dry. 
The color scheme as shown on the drawing is to paint the 
body white and spot it black. You might paint the body black 
and spot it, white, or red and black may be used. Just paint 
it to suit yourself, but be sure your scheme will look like 
a pig. 

While these parts are drying the cart may be made. 
The wheeLs should be carefully laid out and cut to shape. 
Other than these, the cart will cause little tronl)Ie. Taint 
the cart red. 

Use washers between all movaldc parts. Thi". will make 
th^m operate more easily and also prevent the marring of the 
toy by rubbing. 



M^H£ O/Vf 

Toy Pic 

















— - 





'r Indicates Location 
Of Holcs For Scf>ews 

Paint White — Spot BuAct^ 

■^to l I Place WyiSHEns 

P^iNT Cart ficD 

^— ^^ /■ 

<^'~^^ / \ ^ 

Z 5 t ^ I 

t t * 

\^ ^ i " 

S ^ I ± 

^v J > / V ^ 

^. V ^,- t i4- 

\ I K \ 

S 13 xi». 

^s IS J^ 

31 3 _, 

Make Two Of £ach ^ 

Between Movable Part^ 

Fasten Ears And 
Legj To Body With 

R.H. Screws. Th^-^^ D/mensions To 
Suit Finished Toy 





One very important thing to remembiT in making this 
chair is that ail jiieces must be gotten out witli their ends 
perfectly square. 

The joints are fastened in two different ways. Be sure 
you thoroughly understand each ni( thod before you proceed. 
Notice the one where holes are bored part way through one 
member of joint. As the depth of these will depend upon the 
width of stock, calculate very carefully how far you should 
bore. As the hole in the other member of joint will run 
parallel with the grain, some means must be provided to give 
the screw a better grip than it would have In just the end 
grain. This is accomplished by placing dowels in such a 
position that the screw will pass through them, thus getting 
a good grip crosswise of the grain in the dowel. These dowels 
are also added to the other form of joints as a means of 
increasing their strength. Study the details of the Joints 
thoroughly to insure a proper understanding of their use. 

When all joints are made and fitted, assemble with the 
proper screws, then ftt and fasten bottom slats in place. Good 

work on this will add a great deal of strength to the chair. 
Measurements for slats are to be made after chair Is 

The holes In the wood, made by boring for screws, should 
l)e filled by means of dowels or plugs. Whichever method is 
used, it is important that the wood from which they are 
made should match the wood in the chair. 

In fastening arms to frame, care should be taken to have 
them the same distance apart throughout their length. Be 
sure your chair frame is perfectly square before back is fas- 
tened in place. If it is not, the back may not set properly. 
Should it be slightly out of square, it nuiy be sprung enough 
to true it up, by adjusting the slats. The back is fastened 
to the rail by hinges, and is held in the desired position by 
means of a bar which fits In slots cut in the amis. 

A cushion can be made if you secure the help of your 
mother or sister. Paint or stain the chair according to the 
lumber you have made it from. 










Pluo Or Dov/tu 

Child's Morris Chair 

3oR£ I Oecp* 

e F.HD.3cfi£w 



P^ =^^3|{ ___ 

J Drill 

To Avoid Cor^FusioN . Front 
ir^i '^NO Top Viev^s Show Bac^^ 
" I /v Vertical Position 

Detail Of All 
Joints Line (E) 

■A Drill 

e fiHO 


Joint Betwcln 
Front Legs And 
1h 5iot Rails, And 
^ ti - -■- -. \ &ACK Leos 


Dowel — 

T ^ FH6 Screws 
^ Plugs 

'val Method 
Of Fastening 

Wfi'" ARtts To Leoj 

Acciya^TE Fitting 
Ano Fastening Of 
Seat Slats Will 
Add Strength To 
The Chair 

This Young Man Is 
Quite Pleased With 
The Chakir He has 
Made For his Little 

5l STtR 




The hoard can he mailp of soft or hard wood, though, of 
course, the latter will give niueh better service. liirch or 
maple are very good woods for the purpose. 

The first thing to do will be to square up your board to 
the overall dimensions. In addition to the working drawing, 
there are four drawings showing the steps to follow in laying 
out the board. Figure 1 .shows the board after it has been 
squared to the proper dimensions, and with a center line 
extending the length of the piece. Figure 2 shows line drawn 
on each siile of the center line and other lines at right angles 
to the edge of the board. The dimensions for the location of 
these lines should he determined from the working drawing. 
Figure S shows the two arcs drawn which give the outlines of 
the greater part of the handle. Figure 4 shows arcs drawn 
at the corners, and the centers for the one-inch holes located. 

The piece Is now ready to cut to shape. Bore the one-inch 
holes at the points indicated, also the %" hole in the handle. 

In boring holes, the boring should proceed until the spur 
shows through on the reverse side, when the bit should be 
starte<l from that side and the boring finished. Xext saw the 
outline of the handle and round the corners to the arcs drawn. 

As noted on the drawing, all edges should be broken. 
This may be done by slightly planing off the corners and finish- 
ing with sandpaper, or it may be done with a spoke shave. 
Making the edges oval shape by means of the spoke shave 
gives a very good finish to them and may be tried if desired. 
This shape is not shown in the drawing, as the board with 
the edges just broken answers the purpose very well and 
causes less work to make. 

No finish is required for this board. Some people think 
they add greatly to the board by oiling It, but this .-should not 
be done owing to the food absorbing the oil when the board 
is in use. 



3t£Ps In Layino Out 
After Board Is SouAaco Up 
Fig I 

Fig. 3 


Cutting BOjArd. 

Fio e 




— Material. — 

Hard, Closc 
Grained Wooo 

All £oo£S 





This •auiiou can be luadf wlthimt the soUliiTs, but it 
will bo inort.' intert'stiug if the soldiers are made to shuot 

Begin work on part A. After laying out, the stock can 
bo cut to shape with a back saw, smoothed up a bit with i 
«hii-el and rini>hed with sandpaper. 

Make B the Itarrel, and note the chamfers only run part 
way down the barrel. (Ireat care must be taken to bore the 
h.ile straight. Locate the centers on both ends by drawing 
diagonals, then bore half way from each end. 

Next make the axle E and then the wheels. Lay them 
out with a pair of sharp dividers, scoring rather deeply at 
the circumference. This will give a good line to work to. Re- 
move stock with coping saw and linish with spoke shave, file 
and sandpajier. Bore holes at center. 

Whittle out the jiUinger and bore a hole for the rubber 
liand. On |)art B, as indicated, a tack is driven on each side 

over which to loop the rubber band running through the 
handle of the plunger. The tacks must not extend Into tho 
hole in B, or the plunger will not work freely. 

Assemble the parts, using brads and glue to hold them 


Of course there should be some ammunition. For this 
use small round sticks about two inches long, of a diameter 
that will permit them to fit loosely in the barrel. 

There should be something to shoot at, too. A plan for 
a soldier is shown and there should be at least six of them 
made. The soldiers are cut from cardboard and tacked or 
glued to blocks of wood to make them stand. 

Paint the soldiers, using several colors to make them 
attractive. Also paint the cannon. It is suggested that black 
be used for parts A, B and E, and red for parts C and !>. . 



Small tack each 
S/de to hold rubber band 

Toy Cannon. 

3oJdier - make s/x 








This is a littlo convi'nienco that muthiT wili appreciate, 
as it looks very untidy to have a drinlting glass or cup ;;pttiDg 
around with no place for it. 

The dtslgn shows (he shape of the holder octagonal. 
This can bo varied if it is desired to do so. For Instance, it 
might be made round, or hexagonal in shape. There is also 
plenty of room for an expression fif your own ideas in the 
design of the back piece. 

Very little material will l)e required for this holder. AI 
most any kind of wood will be suital>le for use, as no doubt 
It win be painted. 

If you decide to change the design, make your drawing.; 
before you start work. The work on the back piece will 
be very easy, the other two parts requiring more care. The 
bracket supporting the octagonal piece should be laid out by 
the square method, as no compass curves are used. A coping 

saw can l)e \isim1 in;- sawing the bracket, but it will have to 
bo used carefully, as the stock is rather thick for such a 
i^niall saw. 

It is suggested that the part fur the bolder be laid out 
but not cut to shape until after the hole is bored. An ex- 
pansive bit will be necessary to do the best work, though It 
is possible to do a fairly good job with a gouge. In boring, 
bold the stock in the vise crosswise of the grain, otherwise 
the large bit will split the stock. The bottom of the hole 
will have to be smoothed with a chisel or gouge and sand- 
paper. After boring the hole the outside should be worked 
to shape. Bore required holes for fastening together, sand- 
paper well, then assemble. No sizes are specified for the 
screws. Use only heavy enough to do the work. Round- 
head screws will, of course, look better for fastening the holder 
to the wall. Paint to suit the woodwork or wall to which 
it is to be fastened. 



Fort ReauineD OcT^ao^/. 

Lay Out Squ/>»c 
Of ReauiReD S/z£ ^s 
By D//^aofj/»L-3 FfiOM 
Cof*Nens A, 3. C -^/v^ O. 
With R/^oius £9<jml 
To 2 Of a D/y^ao/\f^t-, 

F As AO, S^/NO AAC3 

Loc^T/A/a O, H, I ,J, K , 
CoNNtcT Thcsi PoinTa 




It is very hard for an amateur to holil the Hie iu the 
proper position when sharpening sliatcs. This sliatc sharpener 
will mcehanienlly hold the face of the file parallel to the face 
of the skate runner. 

Of course there are different ways of sharpening skates. 
If you wish them hollow ground this .sharpener will cot do. 
Take them to an expert skate sharpener and he will hollow 
grind them with an emery wheel. 

The base of the sharpeil<'r is %".\2i/."xll" and may lie 
made of soft wood, but the two top pieces should be maile of 
oak, maple, birch or other hard wood. These parts receive 
considerable wear. 

Select the file you expect to use iu the sharpener and 
make two thin pieces the thickness of the file. They are to 
be bradded to the base one on each side of the file. 

Now make the two pieces of hardwood, to be fastened 
over the other pieces and part of the lilo. A space should be 
loft between these i)ieces just Wide enough to allow the skate 
runner to pass through freely. Use 1" flat-head screws t" 
fasten these pieces. When the pieces wear bore new holes and 
set them closer together. 

To use the sharpener clamp the skate in a vi^e and push 
the file across the skate, holding it as firmly as possible. The 
sharpener should not rock sideways. 

Test for sharpness by holding .skati's in the same position 
as blades of a pair of shears. If sharp, they should cut tissue 
paper when worked as shears. 

A sharp skate will not slew sideways. Notches filed 
lengthwise in the end of the blade at the heel will aid iu 
making a quick stop which is necessary when playing hockey. 



Skate Sharpener. 

/? - THicHfl/ess Of Sha te 
B Thickness Of Filf 




Experimenting wltli this engine will be great sport, but 
do not make the mistake that one boy did and think it un- 
necessary to have a safety valve or make weight too heavy. 

Make platform A and nail cleats B to it ; also C and D, 
and fasten to A, but use screws Instead of nails. 

Find an old hlcj'cle pump for a cylinder. Bore a hole 
in the handle end. File off finish and solder a piece of brass 
tulie to the end at right angles. The tube also has a hole 
bored In it, making a passage from the tube into the pump. 

Flatten out the end of the plunger rod from the pump. 
This Is to be the piston rod. Bore hole in flattened part for 
fastening to tlie connecting rod. Remove plunger from piston 
rod and cast a lead piston on It, as at M. Make mold Ijy 
boring hole in piece of wood. Hold rod in hole and pour hot 
lead around it. File piston to fit cylinder. It must be well 
fitted or steam will escape past it. Cast a piston on a piece 
ot stiff wire to fit the tube — this is part L. 

Cut a piece of tin and solder to cylinder. Carve out a 
place for the cylinder in E. Fasten cylinder to E by screws 
driven through the tin. Get a shaft and tube to fit it for a 
bearing as at N. File ends of shaft square to fit holes made 
in C), II and O. Solder tin to tube to fasten it to E. 

Make fly wheel of heavy wood and bore holes for lead 
to add weight. Make parts F, J and I. I is to keep J from 
rubbing on fly wheel and H is a pulley for connecting engine 
to other mechanism. 

Part K is made of hard wood and connected to O with 
a sciew. Assemble all parts. Oil movable parts. Adjust 
length of wire on small piston or valve so when cylinder 
piston is at the end of its stroke the port hole will be open 
for the steam to act against the piston. As the cylinder 
piston is forced out the valve piston runs past the port, allow- 
ing the exhaust to pass out of the tul>e. Make boiler from 
any large can and heat on a kitchen stove. 






The ek'phnDt is a vtT.v attractive toy auil tlae cart is a 
very important ijart of it, l)ecause on it .Mr. Elcpliant can do 
ail sorts of triclis. 

.\U parts of the elephaut will have to he .cut out with 
a turning or coijing saw. The turning saw is liftrder to use 
but will he found more satisfactory on the thick wood. 

Lay out your patterns on cardljoard Iiy method indicated 
in the drawing. Transfer them to the wood from which the 
toy Is to be mrale, being Especially careful that all the holes' 
for the screws are accui-atelj located. It is quite important 
that the holes in the body be located exactly opposite each 
other. Bore holes, then saw to shape and sand well. 

Before painting, the parts should all be assembled and 
tested to see that they are all properly related to each other. 

.\ii\ nf..-ssary alterations should be nulde at this time. Place 
washers liotween movable parts and take measurements for 
the grooves in the cart. 

Make the cart and fit the feet to the grooves. The wheels 
can be sawed out with the coping saw, or wooden button 
molds can be used. Wooden button mollis make good wheels, 
as they are nicely sanded and have holes bored for the screws. 

■ In painting, try to get a color that looks like an elephant. 
A dirt.v or muddy gray is the nearest I can descril)e it. I'aint 
the toes black, the tU5ks white, the eyes white with a little 
black around them. Put a bit of red around the mouth and 
in the back of the eye. The car should be painted entirely 
red. All parts should be painted separately, so it will be 
necessary to take the toy apart to do this. 



Cut Out As Indicated, 
For 'PtiL 

Toy Elephant 

* This Indicates Location 
Of Holcs Fon Scortvs 

Paint dooy A Huoor CfiAy. 

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Use A 1^- 6 F.H. /^^^g j-^gji. 

tiAHE Two For Tail, And Dimensions To Suit 

I3 P>l-I For Legs Fii^ished Toy 
And E/>RS 

Make. Two 

Make Two 



' 1 





This toy can be ninde from pieces of cigar l)ox or other 
scrap thin luuil)er. 

Begin liy making the liottom, or part A. Square the 
piece up niceiy and with a pencil compass and freehand curve 
lay out acconling to the drawing. Cut to lino with a coping 
saw and finish edges with sandpaper. Bore holes on center 
line for -string. 

Make B and fasten to A with cigar box nails. Use a 
brad awl to make holes for the nails so the piece will not 
split. Part C Is a pill box cover. It is to be fastened to A 
wit)! a tack, but should not be placed till after the toy Is 

Two pieces like part D are needed. Lay out from a 
center line. Bore liolcs with brad awl for brads to hold the 
head and tail. Make tail E and head F, after which the 
Irregular part G Is required to assemble the bird. Glue G 
In place between parts D. These paits may be braddcd If very 
fine brads are used. Drive a staple and screw hook In the 
bird as indicated. 

Tie a piece of thread or cord in holes made In neck and 
tall and thread through holes In A, which should be counter- 
sunk to receive knots. Drive staple in A and screw hook 
In B. 

Loop an ordinary rubber band once or twice, ds neces- 
sary, around hooks In B and top of body. Adjust and knot 
cord threaded through holes in A. The bird is held In posi- 
tion lietween these strings and the rubber band. 

Tie a piece of cord to staple In bottom of body and thread 
through staple in A. Hold A by handle In left hand and 
pull oord, making the bird lower his head and tail as if 

Colors are suggested for decorating the toy on the draw- 
ing, but other combinations may be used. Show card water 
colors make good paint for this toy. To produce a luster 
they should be covered by a quick-drying white varnish. 


Feeding Bird 

P/iRT A 

Part B 

h 4-' 


Part F 
















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1 1 1 ;::i-i^ 




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♦ M 






This tuy Is one boys like to make because ouo ran bo 
made in a short time. 

Tilt' materials needed for making the toy are a piece of 
broom handle, an empty spool, an eightpenny nail, two l-incb 
No. 16 wire brads, a piece of tin and a good t^trong string. 

Cut the broom handle to dimension and with a knife and 
sandpaper work to form, rounding one end nicely and cutting 
a shoulder on the other. 

Bore a hole in the shoulder end large enough to receive 
the nail. Drive the two brads in one end of the spool ^w" 
apart. File off the heads and round the ends. Place the 
ppool on. the nail and drive the nail into the handle. Drive 
the nail just far enough so the spool will work freely on it. 

Ijay cut the propeller pattern on a piece of paper. A 
pencil compass may be used for some of the curves. Trace 

til'.' iiattt-ru on n stiff piece of tin or galvanizi-il iron. Use a 
scratch awl or sharp nail for marking. 

Bore two %" holes with a hand drill or punch them with 
a nail. If the latter method is used, file off the hurr. Cut 
to lino with a pair of tin shears and bend the ends as indi- 
cated by Fig. 2. 

This toy should not be operated in the house or near a 
crowd, because when the propeller leaves the spool it leav^-s 
with considerable force and is liable to break anything fragile 
it might strike, or cut a gash if it should strike anyone in 
the face. 

To operate place the propeller on the brads, wind the 
string about the spool tightly, hold the handle in the left 
hand, pulling the string with the right. At the same time 
tho string U; being pulled raise the left hand with a jerk, 
throwing the propeller flying into the air. 


Fl YIN6 Propeller 

Brads —HI 







1 1 

I I 








Top Vi£W 

Fkont Vievi 




The material for the ijiilato or pop gun consists of a 
piece of tube anil a plunger. The tulie may be either metal 
or glass, but tiie material of which it is made must t)e very 
tiiin so it will cut through the slice of potato readily. 

For the tube a piece of Vl" or %" tubing or a large quill 
should be found ami cut about i%". The ends must he cut 
even, and not have a burr on them. If the walls are not 
very thin, file sharp at both ends. 

Make a plunger to fit the tube. However, it Is not neces- 
sary that It lit the tube tightly. Whittle the plunger from a 
piece of wood, making a shoulder at the end of the handle. 
The handle should be of larger diameter than the tube. The 
distance from the shoulder to the end of the plunger should 
be about 1 Inch less than the length of the tube. It must 
not run all the way through the tube when pushing out a load. 

Trepan' the ammunition for the gun by slicing a good- 
sized potato Into V.-lnch slices; if thinner the tube will not 
hold the air. Lay a slice of potato on the table and press 
the tulle through it. When you feel the tube strike the tahlc, 
twist the tube, making sure the potato is cut all the way 
through. With the plunger push the pillet to the other end 
of the tube. Remove plunger, cut another piece In the end 
of the tube, and then with a quick push of the plunger force 
the last pillet up to the first. The compression of the air will 
f >rce the first pillet out with considerable force and a 
loud pop. 

Should the sides of the tube be dented, or there be a 
• ■rack in the seam, the air will escape and the gun will not 



Potato Gun 

Pl unger 

-\'<- — - 


File Sharp 


Gun assembled 

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This iloll is just the tMns for the little folUs ijccausc it 
will st:iiul iiiiiny tumbles without l)rpaliin(;. It will staud 
civet, with its arms in many positions, without falling over. 
It can also sit on the floor, stand on its head or hands, and 
l>p plaeod in many other amusing positions. Tliere is no reason 
why it should be a boy d(dl. If yciu prefer a girl, a skirt and 
sun bonnet will quickly transform it into a girl doll. 

The doll Is to be painted, so use any kind of wood. Make 
the body lirst. Ho all the straight sawing with a common 
saw, but saw the head with the coping saw. 

Now make the legs according to the pattern, rinimling 
the end with a chisel and sandpaper. Bore holes, for the 
screws a little larger than the shank of the screw and counter- 
sink for the head. If the screw is too tight the' movement of 
the leg will soon turn It out of the body. 

The arms are practically the same as the legs, except 
that the layout on them is not so difficult. The arms should 
fit well, so the doll will be properly balanced. 

Lay out with a pencil the features, etc., or if you ai'e not 
very e.xpert at drawing have someone do i1 for you. 

Little children who play with toys of this kind like 
liright colors, so any condiinijtion of l)right colors will be 
desirable. The following combination is suggested : Pants 
blue, shirt red, face white, hair and features black, shoes black 
or brown, stockings and tie gre<'U, and cuffs and collar yellow. 
Two coats will be necessary. 

Do not try to paint to a certain line with one color and 
tlien continue with another, while the first is still wet. If 
you do the colors will run together, siwiliug the looks of the 
toy. Let one color dry thoroughly before applying the next. 




AWooDEN Doll 

LEG Pattern 

V -4. 

:' 1 

' ---'' Al 

(■. i "- 


HEJ\D And Body 

fiRM Pattern 







It can reailUy lie seen from thi' drawlns. which shows a 
staple and string attached to tho axh-, that this toy is to be 
drawn along the floor. The weight made of lead fitted Into 
the bottom of the axle causes the turkey to move back and 
forth, giving it the appearance of walking. 

Note the direction of the grain represented by the line 
lines on the different parts. 

Plane up a piece for the turkey and then trace In the 
pattern. Cut to form with a coping saw. 

Get out the piece for the axle. Be sure the ends are cut 
square. Bore a hole i^" deep for the weight and on the 
opposite side cut a groove for the turkey. 

Draw the wheels on stock prepared for them, with a 
pencil compass, and cut as perfect as po.iisihle with a coping 
saw. At the center bore a hole for the screw to fasten the 
wheel to the axle. Use a round-head screw and place washers 
on each side of the wheel so it will turn freely. 

^'a^dpaper all parts and' glue the turkey in place after 
driving a staple in thi' axle. Paint the wheels and axle led, 
also the shaded part of the head of the turkey. The bill and 
part between the axle and breast and wing are painted yellow. 
The rest of the turkey is to be painted brown, or as near to a 
turkey color as you can mix. After this is thoroughly dry 
paint the feathers, wing and eye, and line on the bill, I)lack, 
using a fine striping lirush. 

The mold is made of two pieces. Lay one piece on the 
other and drive brads through one piece and a snort distance 
into the other. Clamp the pieces In the vise and directly on 
the crack bore a hole with a %" bit 1%" deep, so half of 
the cut will be made on each piece. Take the pieces apart 
and gouge out as at M. Place the pieces back in the vise and 
pour the mold full of hot lead. When the lead has cooled, re- 
move the weight, file smooth and force in the hole in the 
axle. Do not pour water on hot lead because it will explode. 




A Th/)nks6/v/ng Gobbler 


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■ Brad 



Cur Mold ji Deep 





The overall diniersions for body are indicated, but no 
definite dimensiims are given for curve at the back. Make 
this to suit yriursclf, but reiufmber there must be sufficient 
ai'oa to keep the vane headed into the wind. Bore hole for 
screw for the support after plane is assembled. 

Cut small slot for the rudder at the back of body, (.'et 
the slot exactly the right size so the rudder can be held in 
place without nailing. 

Get out the other pieces according to dimensions. In 
boring holes in wheel-axle hanger.s, be careful not to split 
thom. To avoid this, hold iu a vise crosswise of the grain. 
Make axle of (juarter inch <lowcl. Place in position in hangers 
and nail the latter to body. To make wheels, describe circles 
with steel dividers. liore holes in center, then remove stock 
very carefully. 

Cut dowels for supporting the planes, being careful to 
get ends square. Fasten planes to dowels by driving brads 
through the planes into ends of dowels. For wiring, use wire 
that bends easily. Bore holes with brad awl and place wires 
as shown. Fasten planes to body, then fasten rudder in 

The propeller will require careful work. Get out a piece 
%" square then describe a circle %" in diameter and lay out 
as shown. The propeller will be 1/2 " thick throughout its 
length but the width will vary from %" at center to %" at 
ends. A sharp knife will be best for forming the part. For 
fastening the propeller, a round-head screw or a nail with 
large head may be used. Bore a hole through center of 
propeller that will permit it to turn easily on the nail or 
screw used. Put in place with a washer between it and tnd 
of body. 

Balance assembled vane and bore hole for round-head 
sciew at point of balance. This should come for appearance 
about 4H" from front end. Should it not come at this pjint, 
secure the balance by attaching a small bit of metal to the 
lighter end. Suspend from any convenient support hy means 
of the stick indicated. It should turn easily. 

Paint machine gray, with red, white and blue stripes on 
the tail. On upper and lower sides of planes paint the design 
shown, in good proportion to the space it is placed in. 



ft&RQPLfyNE: Wfrt^Tt^ErRVPtNfc 

Detail Of 




Circle A . Reo 
ST^f* B . Wmitc 
Circle C . Blue 

, Arm for hanging -from 
tree or other su p port 

^ if 


A, Red 

B . White 
C . Blue 

/jj '^/S" D/Offtetor 






Not a Sfat amount of stock will bo rciiuircil for nuikiii;; 
the cart, but it is quite large enough to amuse a little boy 
or girl. If a larger cart is desireil, it is only necessary to 
increase the dimensions on the drawing. 

Get out the stocls to the overall dimensions, then lay out 
the euires. Those at the corners on the front and b,>ci< 
pieces are parts of a circle and can be made with a pair of 
compasses. The curves on the side pieces are made freehand. 
Measure in 3^" from one end, 1^/^" from one side, then con- 
nect these points with a pleasing curve. Finish one side 
first and from that lay out the other side, thus getting them 
alike. Use a coping saw to remove the stock. 

In making the wheels, great care should lie taken to gi't 
them e.xactly round. Lay them out with a pair of dividers, 
making a good line in the wood with the point. Saw very to the line and finish with a wood file and sandpaper. 

If this work is done carefully, the wheels can lie made very 
true. Bore holes at the centers for the screws. These holes 
should he only large enough to permit the wheels to turn 
freely. Washers should be used between the wheels and the 
axle as shown in the drawing, and it would be well to use 
them between the head of the screw and the wheel on each 
side. The use of the washers in this manner will cause the 
wheels to run more accurately. 

The box is fastened together with brads. The axle and 
handle are fastened to the bottom of the box with 1-inch flat- 
head screws. Be sure to locate the axle squarely across the 
box. Use a small piece of dowel through the end of the 
handle to grasp it by. 

The cart will be very attractive if painted a bright red. 
Children like liright colors and toys should always lie painted 
to satisfy this liking. 



Small cart 





This toy will require careful work. 

The body requires ;i piece of stock lV4"x4%"xS". The 
method of laying out the jiattern is clearly shown iu the 
drawing. Remove the stock with :i coping saw. The hole 
for the steering apparatus should he bored before the parts 
are assembled, and from underneath the body. 

Lay out pattern for the fender and cut to shape with the 
coping saw. Two are needed. The axles are easy to make — 
two pieces i:j"i\</'xl%". 

The wheels should be perfectly round and may be easily 
made so if these directions are followed : With dividers set 
to the required radius, describe circles on the wood from 
which the wheels are to be made. Score deeply with the 
point of the dividers, leaving a line easy to work to. The 
stock may be removed with a saw and chisel, finishing with 
a wood file and sandpaper. 

The two crosses are very thin, so be careful not to split 

The ambulance is to be paiuted in three colors and it 
will be found best to paint parts of it before assembling. 
The axles can be attached before assembling. They are 
located %" from the front end and I'/s" 'from the rear end. 
Bo sure they are square with the body. Fasten with brads. 

The painting scheme is this: The entire body is to be 
nliite; the crosses, red; and the axles, wheels, fenders, and 
steering gear, lilack. A good way to do the painting is to 
drive small brads into the pieces, attach strings to them and 
then paint. As each piece is finished it can be hung up to 
dry. In driving brads into the wheels, drive them into the 
centers, as there are to be some driven in later for the wheels 
to revolve on. liound head screws and washers may be used 
instead of the brads if desired. 

The painting will be easier and will look better if the 
parts are well sandpapered. 

When the parts are dry, the ambulance may be assembled. 
In doing so. be careful not to mar the parts. The result of 
your work should be an attractive toy. 


Red CR053 Ambulance, 

Body, uv/7//e 
Crosses, red 
Bo/a nee, b/ack. 


for body. 

Pattern for fender 

MaKe two 


flake four 

r IJ Li 



The stock needefl for this toy can l>o obtained from a 
packing case. 

Make seat first. Draw a center line with a sharp pencil 
the length of board. The other center lines are drawn at 
riy;ht angles to the first line by means of the square, their 
locations being 5" and G" from the ends. At the intersec- 
tions of center lines, place the point of your compass and 
draw circles of required diameters. Straight lines drawn 
from one circle to the other, just touching the circumference, 
give the outside edges of the design. With a turning or copinj; 
saw, cut close to outline, finishing with plane, spoke shave 
and sandpaper. Before removing the long center line, locate, 
lior.^ and countersink 3-l(>" holes for the screws used in fast, n- 
ing the head. 

For the head, square to dimensions and lay out 1-inch 
squares. Through these trace the outline according to pat- 
tern shown on drawing. Cut to shape and finish in same 
manner as the seat was finished. 

For the rockers make a pattern from cardboard and from 
it trace the design on the wood. Tut accurately to shape, 
being sure both rockers are exactly alike. 

To fasten rockers to the seat: Bore half inch holes part 
way through the rocker, boring the rest of the way with a 
3-lG" drill. Before screwing rockers to seat, round off nicely 
so they will not mar a polished floor or pick the threads of 
a rug. 

Assemble the parts according to information contained 
in the t^p and front views of the drawing. 

The painting may be done more easily if the parts are 
separated. Before separating, however, mark rockers so they 
may he replaced in exactly the same position they were in 
before taking apart. 

Paint the head and rockers white and the seat red. Each 
part should be given several coats. Each coat should be 
thoroughly dry before another is applied, so do not permit 
your anxiety to finish the rocker cause you to put the second 
coat on too soon. When the white is dry on the head, paint 
the eye, nostrils, bridle and mane, applying black paint with a 
fine brush. 

When parts are re-assembled, the horse is ready for use, 
unless it is desired to add a thin coat of varnish to protect it 
from dirty fingers. 





B/\qY5 Rocking Horse 




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ft-zi 0-3 

d-2S." £ - 3" 
r-2l3" F- 3" 


Assemble Wi_r^ 
2 "/Vg. /p Fi/}r/i£,sD Screws. 



HAND CRAFT projects 


This character will make an amusing toy, btit there is no 
reason why you cannot change it if you desire. It would '"• 
interesting to mal\o several toys, each representing a dilTerent 
character. This may he done without changing the operation. 
All that is neces:mry is to lieep the size of the parts the 
same as in the drawing. The? changing of the shape within 
these limits will not matter. 

In selecting stock, get a piece large enough, if possllile, 
o that all parts may be laid out on it. The patterns nmy I»e 
laid out directly on wood or on cardboard. If several toys 
are to bo made, use the latter method, for then the patterns 
may be used repeatedly. In either case, lay off squares accord- 
ing to the dimensions shown and trace designs so the lines 
will have the same relation to the squares as they do in the 
ilrawing. By this method, the parts you make will be quite 
like those shown. If one is skillful in freehand drawing, he 
may make the designs without the squares, and perhajjs 
according to his own ideas. This would add interest to the 

construction. It may be best to follow these designs the first 
time, after which you may experiment along your own ideas. 

When the patterns are drawn, cut out carefully. If they 
are on cardboard, lay on the wood and trace around them. 
In placing the design on the wood, be sure to have the grain 
run the long way of the piece. Cut to shape with a copiug 
saw and sand well. 

The various parts are held together wilb pins. Ilore holes 
witli a sharp bi-ad awl just large enough for a pin, at the 
points indicated on the drawing by dots. To assemble, insert 
the pins in the holes, cut off so the pin extends on the other 
side about 3-lG", and with a pair of round-nose pliers liend 
the end down with a twisting motion. D- not try to get the 
parts to fit tightly together — they should work freely. 

The toy will look better if it is painted. Use your own 
Ideas. For contrast, the upright should be of a different 
color than the other parts. One method is to use hlack paint, 
leaving the natural wood for the buttons, face, etc. 









Jumping Jack. 

Required — 

One One Tv^O 

V, / Toy To Suit 
OwA/ Ideas. 

All pieces -^ thicl< 





Hake One 




For tho bodies of the dancers select straight grained pine 
or white wood. Laj' out the faces and the location of the 
nails that hold the limhs in place. ■\\'ith a knife carve the 
head and face, rencil or paint in the features. 

The arms are cut from a tin can. Locate the holes and 
punch with a sharp 2" finishing nail. File off the burr caused 
Ity the nail. 

Fasten the arms to the body with cigar box nails, making 
sure that the arms fit loosely. Drive the nails until the head 
is about %" from the body. 

Make four legs of heavy cardboard. Lay out a pattern 
on paper. Trace the design through the rectangles as shown 
on the drawing detail of the leg. Cut the pattern and trace 
on the cardboard. Cut to line with a pair of shears or a 
knife. Fasten the legs to the body the same as the arms 
were fastened. Painting or staining of the body, legs and 
arms should be done before adding the skirt and wig. 

The skirt and wig are cut from scrap black and white 
fur. Make patterns of paper before cutting the hide. Glue 
the skirt and wig to the body. About %" of one end of the 
wig is glued to the top of the head, the rest being permitted 
to flap while the dancers are in motion. The longer the hair 
the better will he the result. Rabbit fur is very good. 

To operate the dancers, drive a pin In the under si<le of 
a chair rail. Tie a piece of black thread to the pin and nbout 
two feet from the chair tie the thread through the holes in 
the center of the arras. Stand about five feet from the 
dancers, holding the string at X in one hand and concealed 
from the audience. .Tcrk lightly and notice the dancing motion 
transmitted to the dancers. 

Place a piece of black cloth beneath the dancers' feet so 
the thread will not be noticed. Practice a few minutes before 
starting your exhibition. 



I HE Hula Dancers 

Fur Skirt 


4 f^M^ 

' -7 




^/i"-H ' 












/) Common P/n 
3 Chair R/iil 
C Black Thre/id 


E Tin Arm 

Cardboard Leg 




As this toy Is to t)e painted, it is possiljle to usr ailnost 
any kind of wood. 

The body, head and taii iieing made from wood of tlie 
same thicliness, select a piece large enough to make all three 
parts. Lay out the small squares as shown, being careful to 
make accurate measurements. Next trace the design through 
the squares, making the lines pass through them in the same 
relative position as on the drawing. Do not do this hastil.y — 
use great care so the outline will lie a good representation of 
a duck. Even greater care will lie required in cutting, for 
no matter how carefully you have traced your lines, unless 
you cut exactly to them, you will fail. Use a coping saw 
fur this. 

Make parts D and E next. Part D will need careful 
attention. First get out stock to the overall dimensions, then 
lay out and cut groove. As It is intended that the duck's 
feet rest in this groove for support, compare the thickness of 
the feet before you cut the groove to exact size. This is sug- 
gested for the reason that in making part C you may have 

made it a bit thin. The groove should hold the feet snugly in 
position. The last operation will be to plane the chamfer 
which runs only on three sides. 

Pay attention to the note on the drawing with reference 
to location of dowel holes. It Is easy to see what difhculty 
would be encountered if the holes were not opposite each 
other in the various parts. 

When all parts are finished, they should be assembled and 
tested for proper fitting and relation to each other. The 
small drawing at the right explains how the parts are fastened 
in place, and the method of operating. When the test is satis- 
factory, take the toy apart for painting. While it is possible 
to paint the parts when assembled, it can lie done with greater 
ease if they are separated. The parts should l)e well sand- 
papered before painting. 

When you paint an eye, endeavor to get it to look just 
as much like an eye as possible, and when you represent the 
feathers, use the same care. Careful and thoughtful work 
will produce a toy that will well repay your elTort. 







r r-^-; : 


t t -^N/ 

-5 /- ^"^ 

" 1 





,^^, iv fc) 

^ : ^v^ ^ 

^ Si s 

V ^^ 

^ /- ^. 

s^^ -i^'--x ^ 

^' f 'i 

\ ^ J- 

V -/'^ 

^^ z 

■> - /^ i 

--^ :r ,-^ J 

2__ _ _ D 4-^ 


3^J D0VV£L 

Brad and 


Are Checks 
For a - B 


Mechanical Duck. 

Paint - Body ^- Gray With White Wings. 
Head And Neck .Cray, Red Eye. 
White Crown, Yellow Bill 
Tail .- Cray And White. Fee t , - 
Yellow And Black. Feathers ,■ 
Black Stripez E,- Brown. 

■^ DoW£LS 

View Of Parts 
Without C In Place 







. 1 

7^ -r^t 



For C Not 

Locate Holes On C 
By Means Of Squares. To 
Locate Holes X-Y On E. Put 
C In Groove , Then Place E 
Against C And Mark 
Through C On £. 



That this outfit is i)r!ic'tic;il has liccn ih-innnstrati-il by 
users who have won contests for speed in setting fires. 

Lay out bow acconling to detailed drawing. Bore a %" 
hole to form round part of cutout just ahead of hand-hold. 
With coping, keyhole or turning saw, cut to line of layout. 
Next niaki- holes for leather or buckskin thong. Finish bow 
by making all corners round, scraping with window glass, 
and smoothing with fine sandpaper. Spnnd plenty of time 
on this so the handle will be nicely rounded and all parts 
smooth and free from slivers. Rub bow with linseed or other 
oil, so If you are caught in the rain with it, the wood will 
not be affected. Thread the thong through the holes and hold 
by a brad pushed through leather so it cannot slip through 
the hole. 

The block D is made of oak. It is chamfered and has a 
screw driven about 3-lfi of an inch below the surface at the 
center, which acts as a bearing for the head of the round 
head screw In the end of drill C, 

Make drill of cypress, as this material will start the 
tinder more readily than other wood. It can be made round, 
left square, or have the corners planed off. One end is nicely 
rounded and the other has a screw driven half way into it. 

The tinder board is made of cypress. Lay out notches as 
shown, but before cutting with a saw, bore V^" holes y\" 
deep. The holes are to receive the end of the drill. 

To start a fire, make shavings of dry wood. Collect some 
dry grass and twigs. Place board A on ground, and below 
one of the notches place a bunch of tinder. Wind the thong 
on the bow about the drill as shown in assembled drawing. 
Place end of drill in hole, hold block D in the left hand 
on the screw in the other end of the drill. Grasp bow by 
handle with right hand, hold part A with whichever knee ig 
most convenient, then saw with the bow. causing drill to 
revolve back and forth rapidly. As soon as timber begins to 
smoke, remove board, pick up tinder and blow steadily on it, 
or swing it, holding in both hands until it begins to flame. 




Boat I HoLts 
J OetP To y^ 
Aid /f\i 

STytflTlfJG C 

Place Nau rHRouGH 
THorjG At £. Loosen Or 
Tighten Tmong &y Changing 
Position Of Nail. 

^3 TEN With 
Strong Tack 

I^RH. Screw 

5COUT Hremaking Set. 

L£FT Hand 

Cyp ress 

(gs \ RouN O End 


■^ \-^'' Tinder ^S^ 


.1 n. 

A.. ^------v:::.--:^{ ^.m^ 

Sore Holes For "-— ^ 
Thong As Shown 
By Dotted Lines 

Make Of Oak- Round ^All dooES 

Can Be Made 
By Frayino Piece 
Of Soft Manilla 



■:■ @ 



Shall FH 

Scre w To 

Serve As A Bearing For C 






This 'Irawins will roquiro (■iinsi(li'ral>lc study Iipforc 
ntteinpling to make the sled. It may be made to he pulled 
with the tongue or a pair of thills may be made for a dog 
or pony. The thills and tongue may I)e interchangeable. 

Begin by malilns the box. All the stocli Is %" thick 
except the dash, and this is %". Next make the Vi" strips 
that fit over the upper edges of the box. 

Get out the stock for the seat and the small cleats that 
are fastened to the inside of the box to hold the seat in 
position. Also the stiips that fit into these pieces and are 
fastened to the sides of the seat. 

Next get out parts 2 and 3 which fit under the box ami 
are bolted to it ; in other words the front and lack Irolstnrs. 
The back bolster is fastened to the box by two eye bolts, 
and also to part 4, by eye bolts hooked in those running up 
through the box. This allows the back bob to rock when 
going over uneven surfaces. 

The front bolster is bolted to the box and Is fastened to 

part 4 by a king bolt that runs through the box, and also 
part 3 and 4, It is secured by a nut under the bob. 

Make parts 4 and note the mortises in these pieces, into 
which fit the tenons on parts 5. 

Parts 5 should next be made and fitted to the parts 
just constructed, then work can be started on the runners, 
which perhaps will be the hardest of the work. Lay out the 
runners as shown by the drawing, cutting the mortises t)efore 
the runners are cut to shape. Angle irons should be fastened 
in the corners where parts 4 and 5 are connected. Also iron 
strips should be .screwed to the runners and parts 5. 

Make the tongue and spreader to which it is fastened. 
Tile latter is fastened to the runners with %" lag screws. 
Note a spreader is also required for the bacic bob. 

The iron runners or shoes may he put on at a blacksmith 
shop or you may do this yourself, as it is not difflcult. The 
scheme for painting the finished sled is indicated on the draw- 
ing by the letters. 




■ > 



5C5 JZ.fZ). 

J/t£w Without 
Run NCR 5, £tc. 


^-iPlfii'- ..-^/^c- ^3^F^. f:~. 

^' -J w' 


3mo£3 - Steel. 

■/4/vg TH/M.L3 - OAn 
OTH£Pt Part^ -jAnv Coop Wood 




Years ago wlu-u tho Indians hail no matches thoy started 
their fires by working a how and arrow similar to the work- 
ing of this drill. The Chinese also use a contrivance like this 
one. with a weight on tup of the shaft for drilling hides "lu 

The drill shaft is round and may be planed from a square 
stick if you do not have a dowel rod about this size. Taper 
one end of the shaft to receive the drill point and bore a 
hole in the other end for the string. 

Make the fly wheel of heavy wood, as the heavier the 
wheel the better the drill will work. Lay out the fly wheel 
with a pair of dividers or a pencil compass and cut to line 
with a coping saw. The hole bored at the center should be a 
press fit on the shaft and should be fastened to it with glue. 

Use a piece of hard wood for the movable arm. Lay out 
the shape from center lines. Bore the hole before shaping 

the piece, to prevent splitting. Note that tlie hole in this 
l)iece is larger than the oni- in the fly wheel. 

Fish or chalk line should be used for assemiding the 
movable arm to the shaft. The line or cord used must not 
be stiff, but very pliable, so it will wrap about the shaft easily. 
Tie a knot in the cord each side of the shaft to keep it from 
slipping out of place. Thread the ends through the holes In 
the movable arm and knot several times. 

To operate the drill wind the string around the shaft by 
turning the movable arm on it. Then press down on the arm. 
releasing the pressure as the arm reaches the end of the down- 
ward stroke. This will cause the string to wind in the oppo- 
site direction on the shaft, raising the arm for the next stroke. 
A little soap applied to the shaft will cause the arm to slide 




Fly v/heel 


U li 

gnJ filed ehdfrafffnfJ 


CNINC3C Drilling 
Spots ONDomuoes. 





A dark wood will l>p most suitable for this model. A 
light wood, it left natural, will soil easily, and if stained, the 
color will he affeeted by the dampness on the cloth that must 
occasionally he used to keep it dean. It made from gumwood, 
and given two or three coats of linseed oil, you will have a 
very attractive piece of work.. 

Get out your stock for the tray to the overall dimensions, 
then lay out the shape with fine pencil lines. The radius for 
drawing the arcs from points C anit D is %". The same radius 
is used for rounding the corners at the back of the tray. No 
radius is shown for the cornirs at the front of the tray. 
These are to be rounded to give a pleasing curve. 

To best show the shape of the finished tray, the end view 
is given as a section on the line AI? shown in the front view. 

The tool which is used most in this constru<'tinn is thi' 
ffoiif/e, one having the l>evel on the outside. It must be 
sharp. First practice using it on an old piece of wood. Com- 

mence removing the waste stock by working from the center 
to the outside. Keep away from the lines about Vs" until the 
roughest part of the work is complete, then finish carefully 
to the lines. The gouge is not an easy tool to work with at 
first and you cannot get as smooth surfaces as with a plane. 
I5e careful around the comers. 

It is necessary to have some kind of a hand-hold. The 
end view shows the curve crosswise of the tray and the front 
view shows the length and the curve at the ends. The tray 
is thinner at the front than at the back. Shape this after the 
rest of the work is complete, as it is easier to hold the piece 
in the or clamp if it is the same thickness all over. 

Lay out the scraper as shown. Saw the curve with a 
coping saw. 

Sandpaper all the work, and finish as suggested. Kemcm- 
hcr that sandpaper does not take the place of the plane, chisel, 
etc. Use it only after all the tool work is finished. 








T/,fU A 5 








tr some nther soft wihmI shimld I'l- fcir tliis 


Start work on the liasi'. I'lane it to the r(>(4iiire(l (linu-ii- 
sions. then lay out tlip locations for the holes H and J. Draw 
two center lines, as shown, and on tlie center line running 
across the piece, marli points %" from each edge for holes 
nnirked .T. On the center line running lengthwise • of the 
piece mark points one inch each way from the center for the 
holes marked H. At these points drill 3-10" holes entirely 
through the piece. Countersink holes marked H on the bottom 
side of the base to receive a flat-head screw. 

Next with a sharp-pointed pencil lay out the Vs" chamfer 
all around the top edge. Never use a marking gage, as it 
will make a groove in the wood that cannot be removed un- 
less the chamfer is made larger than is desired. 

Plane the chamfer, holding tlw piece in the vise for this 
operation. Sandpaper well, being careful to keep sharp edges. 

It will 

Mfl.l 1 

cilgi'S .M. N a 

]|ll (> 

front end. 

I'iei,;ife :i piere li.r'the holder next. Bore a Inde two 
inches deei) to tit your Hag stick. Next lay out. as shown in 
the drawing, the parts to be removed, which are shown by 
ilnited lines. lieninve the parts with a plane. 

the appearance of the finished piece if 
re chamfered \s" back .1 ini-hes from the 

.\f(er finishing tlie holder with sandpaper, the parts are 
ready lo bi' ass"lnlded. They are fastened together wilh llat- 
head screws through the countersunk holes. 

Drive a screw through the top of the holder into the h(.de 
to be occupied by the Hag stick. This screw should be made 
lc> lit loosely, so it may be turned with the lingers, and its 
purpose is to hold the Hag stick in place so it is not blown out 
by the wind. , 

A desirable finish is to paint the holder to match the 
house or other surface it is to be fastened upon. 






A coping saw or a band saw will Ijo necessary for inal<iui; 
this toy. If you have tin- use of a baud saw, and am properly 
supervised in Its operation, the construction will be much 
easier. The work can be done well with the coping saw, but 
it will require n little mere effort on the part of the worlier. 

First lay out your patterns on thin cardboard. Lay out 
the squares as indicated and trace the design through these 
squares in the same way as they are traced through the 
squares of the drawing. Be very careful with this part of 
the worlt. You want this design to look enough like a real 
rabbit so your friends will not ask you where you got your 
dog. You will find it quite a task to get just the right outline. 

When the patterns are completed to your satisfaction, 
cut out with a pair of sharp shears. Lay them on the stock 
from which the toy is to be made and trace around them. 
Locate the holes with exactness. It is important that the 
holes on the right side of the body be exactly opposite the 

ones i>n the left side. Before cutting to shape, it will be well 
to bore the holes for the screws. Select the size screw you 
wish to use and bore accordingly. When all parts are cut to 
shape, assemble them to see if they have the proper relation 
to each other. If satisfied with this test, take them apart, 
smooth with sandpaper, and p.nint according to the suggestion 
on the drawing. Paint each piece separately and hang up to 
dry by meaus of small pieces of string. 

Make the cart next. Be careful to get the wheels round. 
The measurements for the grooves in the cart are to be taken 
from the iini.shed toy. Lay out and cut accordingly. Paint 
the whole cart red. 

Washers should be used between all movable parts for 
two reiisons. First, to make the parts work easily, and second, 
to keep from marring the painted sui-faces. For instance, if 
the legs were fastened to the body without a washer the 
movement of the legs would soon wear off the paint. 

PLATE 4:! 



Make Two 













^ \ 


>' 1 







, 1 





1 j 





Toy Rabbit 

Make Two 
Of Each 

— Paint — 
Rabbit- Whi te. 
Spot Black 
Or Gi^^y. 
Ca^r-t - Red 

Location Of 
Holes Fofi Screws 

To Suit 
Finished Toy 

»..p "oj I : 








r.t'j:ln work by iiuiUing pistol. Soft wuod such as piu'' 
should bo .selected, as there is considerable carving to be done 
with the jaek-knife. IMano the piec<' sijuare and to size, then 
lay out the form. Bore a V^'nch hole through barrel and 
then, with a smaller bit. cut the opening in which the hanuiicr 
slides. Note the cut is made deeper at X. Cut to form with 
a coping saw. Before rounding barrel cut opening for trigger. 

Make trigger. Bore holes with a brad awl for pin ami 
rubber band. Fit trigger in place and fasten with a pin. 

Drive a tack in the bottom side of barrel and loop a 
rubber band run through the trigger over it. The rubber 
band acts as a trigger spring. 

The hammer should be made of a piece of hard wood. 
Thread a heavy rubber hand through hammer and loop ends 
over tacks or screws driven in sides of barrel. Fine springs 
such as may be taken from an old adding machine may be 
used with the ruliber band, or if they are strong enough no 
ruLiher hanil will be required. Thread a piece of fish or chalk 
line through hole in hammer, to be used to pull hammer back 
to cock the gun. 

Taki- pistol apart and round barrel, trigger anil handir- 
nicely. Also santl insirle of I)arn'l so the bulb'l will slide <mi1 

To make bullet, whittle oul a nuind stick, cut a shoubb'i- 
and notches as at 1. Wrap a piece of wrapping paper around 
liullet as at 2 and fasten with a piece of string. Stand the 
liullet in a hole bored in a piece of board and pour paper 
mold full of hot lead. The lead can be melted in an old 
spoon. A drop of water poured in the hot lead will cause 
it to explode, so do not allow water to be put on the lead 
until after it has set. When the lead has cooled remove papi-r 
anri file the end round. 

The frame for target is well dimensioned so little troul)Ie 
will be experienced in making it. The dolls are made of 
clothes pins. 

To play the game shoot in turns. The men count 10 and 
the women 5. The person first making 50 points wins the 





E\'pry boy has learned this old nurseo* rhynn' in Ihc 
klndcrpirtcn. Hfro is a chance for you to illustrate it for 
the little folks. It is to he done with some thin wood, a 
jack-knife and copinq: saw. 

Make the base B. Next lay out with a pencil compass 
and rule part A. Before sawing to form, bore a row of 5-lG" 
holes, removing the stock for the cut-out. The cut-out can be 
made with the coping sp_w. Finish the sides of the cut-out 
with a knife, rat-tail lile and sandpaper. They must be very 
smooth so part F will slide easily. 

Make C and fasten to B with cigar box nails. Part D 
is made up of two pieces of wood, one thin and one thick. It 
Is merely a slide and its construction can be Ii-arned from 
the end view. Assemble with cigar box nails. 

E is a very thin piece, and receives considerable abuse. 
so select a good tough piece of cigar box lumber for this part. 

It must be made accurately and the edges of the slot and 
corners nicely rounded and smoothed with sandpaper. 

Part F will have to l>e made with a jack-knife, unless you 
have a turning latlu-. 

Jack, or part (J, should be drawn on a piece of wood 
having the grain run at such an angle that the point of the 
cap will not split off. 

Drive brads for the rublx^r band and then assembb^ 
according to the drawing. It will be found necessary, no 
doubt, to sand parts here and there so they will work well. 
A little common soap applied to movable parts will make 
them work freely. 

With a small brush decorate the toy as indicated on the 
drawing. To operate, hold B in the left hand, grasp the 
handle on E between the thumli and first and second fingers 
of the right hand, pull to the right till Jack backs over the 
candle, release the handle and see Jack jump. 



Jack Be Nimble 

Paint — 
/K-B Yellow H^ Red I Pink 
J- White K- Green Candle - White^Reo . 





First grt !iut all pieces uf stock to their overall sizes. 

Fit to the liorizontiil part the two pieces which fit just 
in front and back of shutter fratne and which hohl the latter 
in a firm, upright position. Cut notch in central part of 
frame later. Next cut the angles on upper ends of B and C. 
First study the drawing, then hold parts as neai'ly as you 
can in proper position with reference to pieces to which they 
are to fit. This should assist you in understanding the draw- 
ing. Lay out the angles, but before cutting, compare again. 
Next locate and cut notches for part X. To do this lay H and 
C on the floor in proper position, place X on them so it 
will be 14" from bottom of each piece, then mark. Fasten X 
in position at once. 

Lay out and cut A next. Fasten A, B and C in place 
with small hinges. When these parts are assembled, the small 
blocks that rest just back of A, B and C may be fitted and 
fastened in place. To locate notch to be cut in horizontal 
part, fold B and C back so X rests upon it. then mark and cut. 

M.Mki' iiirror frame next. The mirror shouM be one suit- 
able tor this size frame and is to be held in place liy round- 
head screws and washers. ,\ 2" round-head screw holds the 
fi'ame to the horizontal support. Use a washer here also. 
Turn screw Just tight enough to hold frame securely and yet 
permit it to lie turned as desired. 

Next make shutter frame. It will be necessary to bore 
holes for shutter support and to place the latter in position 
before assembling the parts. Tack shutter in place afterwards. 
Small cleats are placed in front of shutter at the top, and 
back of shutter at the bottom to keep it from swinging farther 
than is necessary. The opening at bottom of fi-ame should 
be a size that will hold the shutter in a snug position when 
in use. When carrying from place to place it is removed. 

.\ coat of paint will add to the appearance and also pre- 
serve the wood. 

The outfit can be quickly set up and adjusted to flash 
the signals to any point desired. 

PLATK 4fi 

DtTAiL OF tliRROPi FRy^r/a 
U3£. MiRRofi Suitable For This 
5/Z£ FR^rte DoRe Hole 5 ^t ^ To 
SutT Use R H ScRLws ^noW'-^sners 

Boy Scouts Heliogr/\ph Outfit. 

Det/ml Of 3HUTTEJi ^no FRAne 


Amo Cut 

To Cut Notches In 
3 Ar^o C Fopi X . Lf^y 3 -^f^o C 
Oiv Ftoofi , Pl-^ce X In Position 
A NO n^RK X Is /I FRon Bottom. 

Part C Is S-^ne Size. 
1^3 S. But Upper £no Is 
Cut Just Opposite 




This groun;! scratoher will be found vi-ry conveni.iit r..r 
those having small gardens. The project is also i good one 
to make for Ihe practice gained in laying out an irregular 
shai-'ed object from dimensions given. 

The pattern might be laid out on, and cut from a piece 
of cardboard and then traced on the wood. Plane up a piece 
of wood to the n'quired thickness and on it trace the pattern. 
Use a coping saw to cut to form and finish with a file and 

Bore a hole in the handle. Bore from both sides so the 
wood around the hole will not split out. Locate the points 
at which to drive the brads or scratchers and drive at about 

th.' angle indicated. If the angle at which the brad comes 
through docs not look right it can be bent to suit with a pair 
of pliers. 

Make the thin cap that covers the heads of the brads. 
This is necessary to keep the brads from working loose and 
pushing up through the handle. The cap may be bradded in 
place, but it is suggested that holes be bored and it be fastened 
to the handle with small round-head screws. Trace the cap 
from the first part made so it will be exactly the same shape. 

With sandpaper round all edges ninely, especially the 
handle, so the sharp corners will not bother the user while 





Any material will do for the snow shovel, 
painted, so work in any scrap pieces. 

It is to be 

Part D should be made of one piece if possible, but two 
pieces may be used. The strip across the back and metal 
piece across the front edge will help hold the parts together. 
Plane part D to size and chamfer front edge as indicated on 
the drawing of part D. 

Make part C next. Note ou the drawing that the corners 
are cut and a cut-out made for the handle. Fasten part C 

to 1) with screws. Bore holes and countersink them, as llat- 
head screws are to be used. 

Now make the handle. It is composed of two parts, A 
and B. Fasten A to P. with one screw and two hnishlng 
nails. Also fasten B to C and D with screws. 

Paint D and front face of C black, the rest of C and 
the handle red. 

Cut a strip of galvanized Iron or heavy tin, bend and tack 
over the edge of D. 



• 1_ 

C/y/z. Z75 Snow jho vel 

-i«o , ^ 



.^ • -L* 


\. 36" ^-jj t 


/>?/?7- £• 

Part i 

2 /^ 

^-8" — H ; 

U L^ u ' 





, '1 




_ , / " 1 

h 6 1 

"■^ 1 

1 1 -• 


K3i-^ .' 



Pa/f7t D ond 
ffon^ foccBf C 
b/ack, ffit fcst of 
C and /loni^/e retf. 

— «_ 


(4- ^ ^^^ 





The making of kites like boat making requires consider- 
able personal experimenting to make them perform as desired. 

These drawings show a few of the most common kites. 
The double dotted lines represent the kite sticks and the 
single ilotted lines the string which is stretched from stick 
to stick and holds them in position. The string Is also used 
to strengthen the paper which Is pasted over It. 

The first kite is called by boys a two sticker and, like 
the three sticker, requires a tail. It is impossilde to sa.v how 
long or how heavy the tail must be. It should be just heavy 
enough so the kite will not dive. The tail can be made of 
strips of cloth tied together. 

A bridle or belly band may vary in length on different 
kites, but this will have to be adjusted when the trial (light 
Is made. 

Sticks for kites can be made from a straight grained 
cedar post. They will be very light and will bend consider- 
able without breaking. Other light wood will do for the 

sticks. To make the sticks from a post si)Iit off thin strips 
with an axe and then plane to size. 

Fasten the sticks together where they cross with a tine 
Itrad or cigar box nail and bind with waxed cord. 

Bend the cross stick of the bow kite as shown at the 6" 
dimen.sion on the drawing and hold in this position with a 
piece of fish line. It is great sport to fly three of these kites 
at one time, although it takes some skill to get them up and a 
very strong line to hold them. 

Kites like the four-stick in the drawing have always won 
the height contests and are not difficult to make. Cover this 
kite with linen cloth or tracing cloth. 

Box kites are also easy to nmke. The cross sticks can 
I)e half lapped or fastened in other ways as the maker 
may wish. 

The best material for covering kites Is tracing cloth, 
heavy colored tissue paper or cloth that will not allow the 
wind to blow through it. A cooked flour and water paste is 
as good as any. 




Two Stick 

Box Kite 


Three Stick 

y e 6 


Two St/ck Bow 

No tail 

Four Stick 

Yofd Stick ' 

3 Two Stick Bow Kites 


SquapcBox Kite 




The first drawing shows "THE MYSTERIOUS STRINC 
rrZZLE." Pull one ccd ami the strins is white ; pull the 
other and it is red. A sectional vi<'W shows the object cut 
through the center and one part removed,^ the in- 

. Get out a piece of soft wood and bor;- a Vj" hole alino;:t 
the entire length. Augur bits work hard in end grain, so use 
soft wood. Make a plug to lit the hole from the same wood. 
It should be made longer than the piece desired so it can be 
sawed off after being put in plaee. After sawing, if the plug 
is still evident it may be concealed by pounding or battering 
the end with a hammer or paint the whole piece. 

Bore a %" hole crosswise of the piece. Thread a piece 
of heavy chalk line through the holes — straight across — reach 
up in the large hole with a crochet hook and draw the cord 

down through the hole. Drive a staple in one end of the 
plug after the cord is placed in positiou with reference to the 
staple. Insert the plug into the hole to a depth of 1" and 
saw flush with the end. Pull ends of string up tight. 

Tie a knot in one end of the cord and color it red for 
a distance of about 4". Pull the other end of the cord, draw- 
ing the red end in as far as the knot will permit. Cut this 
end off to the same length as the dthcr and tie a knot. Leave 
this end white. 

The other puzzle is rather difficult to solve. Make the 
piece as shown and tie the buttons in place. Ordinary knots 
are used at the end, but in the middle the string should be 
fastened as indicated at A. The object is to get both buttona 
on one side without untying the end knots. 




ChalK Line 
Color one end,- 
l^ s^'^^ /^' Leave, other end 

j Bore I 
3 Ho/es 


Object - 

To get button 
X on same 
Side as Y 
without untieing 
the knots. 





j Enlarged 
/r[ view 
mat A 




Boys, here is a Fourth of July cannon that will do every- 
thing a war cannon will do except kill people. It will boom, 
shoot a projectile, belch forth flame and smoke and recoil il" 
set on a smooth surface when fired. There is no danger con- 
nected with it and it makes the shooting of firecrackers safe. 
The little folks may use this project as a toy after it has 
been used for celebrating the Fourth. 

Make A the floor and screw wheels in place. Wheels may 
be cut from a piece of broom handle. Or wooden button 
molds may be used. Button molds make ideal wheels as they 
are already bored. 

Next make th^ carriage and fasten to A. Use 1" brmls 
for assembling. 

Now make the barrel. Square stock to size and draw 
diagonals to locate the center. With dividers or pencil com- 
pass from the center just located at the muzzle, draw a %" 
circle. Then bore a %" hole about 1 inch deep in the breach 
of the barrel. Remove the bit and bore through the barrel the muzzle till the holes meet. Use a rat tail lile or 
sandpaper on a pencil to smooth hole. 

Draw a line around the barrel two inches from the 
breach and from this line plane or whittle the barrel round 
to the %" circle. Chamfer the breach end and fasten the 
barrel in place with %" No. 7 round-head screws. 

Cut a piece from a tin can and on it lay out part E as 
detailed. Cut after boring holes and finish with a file. Fasten 
to end of barrel with 14" No. 1 round-head screws or cigar 
box nails. 

Disassemble all parts except the mounting and paint as 
indicated. Drive a staple or screw a screw eye in the front 
of part A for a string. 

Open the breach by raising the tin, insert a firecracker, 
leaving the fuse projecting through the hole in the tin. Light 
the fuse and watch the firecracker, smoke and fire shoot from 
the muzzle of the gun. 




Trench Mortar 

Note — 

Place Fi recracher 
In BfjRREL F asten Part K - 
Ligh t Fuse 


. HART C /vw/Y-f jy^o 

Part B 



H — 'b' — 1 




Note- ^^' 
CAfiuFLAOC. Br Combining T/it Colors 

Place Washer s Be twccn Mov^bl e 

Part D 

1 1 





As tho whole of this toy is to bo palntcil, mi>st any Kiml 
of wood may be used. 

Work might be started on the head. Square up an edi^'e 
and one end of the piece from which you are going to make 
It. Draw the squares with the try square from these sur- 
faces. Lay out pattern and bore hole for D. Next lay out 
patterns for C — the saddle — and saw to shape. 

Make part B. In boring hole for axle F, iay out on each 
odge of B and bore from rach edge. In boring from each 
edge, the error, if any, is greatly reduced. Now make wheel 
A, bore for axle from each side of piece. The out.side of thtj 
wheel should be made true. Describe a circle on the stock 
with a sharp pair of dividers, scoring rather deeply ; use this 
line to work to. 

The axle F is one-half inch in diameter. The hole for 
tl.e axle is also one-half inch in diameter, and to make the 
wheel turn easily on the axle sand the axle slightly in the 

Sand all pieces well. Fasten D and C in place, then 
fasten E to C with Ihit-bead screws, and to B with rouml- 

Before i,lacing wheel in position, paint the parts. A 
.s<'heme for painting is given on the drawing. Two coats of 
paint will be necessary to give the horse the real finished 
appearance, but before giving the second coat, place the wheel 
in position anil paint it fully assembled. 

Use washers as indicated, and be sure the wheel turns 

TLATK r,3 





The first piece of this toy to malie is the base. Select a 
good straight grained piece of soft pine. After planing ti> 
size lay out the mortise with a marking gage and knife, I'Ut 
with a chisel. 

Drill holes for the wire support to hold the bag. Drill 
these holes on a line 1%" from the end of the piece. 

Square up piece for the man and draw squares through 
which to trace the form of the man. Prepare a piece in the 
same manner for the arms. Now saw to line with a coping 
saw and finish with sandpaper. If you are not accustomed 
to reading drawings, take note of the dotted lines projecting 
from the forward foot of the man. This indicates that aljout 
%" of material is to be left here. 

Make a saw cut for the end of the spring or corset stay. 
Also bore a hole at A for a brad. 

Carve out an egg shaped piece of wood for the punchin,-^ 
bag with a knife and drive a staple in the top end. Now 

with a pair of pliers form from a piece of wire about 12" 
long the bag support. 

The spring is to he made from a corset stay or piece 
of clock spring. Tunch two holes in it. one to fasten to the 
bottom block and the other for the block to operate the toy. 

Paint the parts as desired. The bottom might be gray, 
the trousers red, the shirt white, the gloves black and the 
bag brown. 

After the paint has thoroughly dried, assemble the parts. 
Fasten the arms to the body with cigar box nails. The arms 
must swing freely. As the body is so thin, the arms should 
be fastened one a little above the other so the nail points 
will not touch. 

Place the foot in the mortise and fasten with a long 
brad. Put cue end of the spring in the saw kerf in the foot. 
Fasten the other end to tlie bottom piece with a cigar box 
nail. Set the bat; support in place and operate by pressing 
on the little block fastened to the spring. 

PLATE 5:i 


The Bag Puncher 

*-/fi VI I re -^ 




2 g Z ong 





This table is convenient, as the legs can be folili'd sa 
the table requires little space tor storing. It is just the 
proper height for a typewriter, and also for playing games 
that do not require too large a surface. 

The top may be made of one piece or of several pieces 
glued together. In the latter case the edges should be well 
jointed: Dowel pins may be used, but are not necessary, as 
the parts D act as cleats. 

Make two pieces liiie part D of hard wood. Plane the 
ooards and lay out the design. Bore i/^-iuch holes as inili- 
cated on' the drawing of this part and cut to line with a 
rip saw. 

Fasten these pieces to the top with screws. The end 
view drawing shows the method of boring for the screws, 
using a V^" bit and 3-l(!" drill. The screw should be of such 
gage that it will slip through the 3-16" hole easily. 

JIalve parts A, C and C next. The drawings show them 
square, but this is not necessary. Round pieces of broom 

handle might be used. Cut each piece to the proper length 
and with a saw, knife and wood rasp work the ends round 
to a diameter of %". A turning lathe or dowel cutter may 
be used for forming the ends on these pieces. 

The legs should be made of oak or other hard wood. They 
are practically the same, except that legs N have one end 
rounded and the holes for the spreaders are one inch farther 

Fasten the legs to the ends of A, B and C with brads or 
round-head screws, but note that legs M are not fastened to 
C. If you n-.iUe the mistake of fastening them your table will 
not fold. 

All tenons must fit the holes. If they are too small the 
table will not stand rigidly when being used. 

After assembling, sandpaper well, breaking all sharp 
edges. Taint bright red or finish otherwise. 



Part A 

Part B 



Leg m .-f^^ 



Part C 




1^ - 





H 16- 

3 C 






This k'tter rack will he found very handy on any desk or 
tabic. It need not necessarily be used for letters, It is con- 
venient for holding post cards or kodak pictures. 

Begin work on the bottom piece first because if yoti make 
a mistake on this part it can be used for one of the smaller 
pieces. After planing to size, draw center line and locate 
screw holes. Lay out curves at corners with compass and 
pare to line with a chisel. Bore and countersink holes foi- 

Make partition next, and if it is spoiled it may be used 
for a side piece. Note that only two corners are rounded 0:1 
all parts except the bottom piece. 

Now make the side pieces and then assemble all parts. 
Be sure to bore holes for the screws, otherwise the screws will 
split these thin pieces. Round-head screws are used for the 
side pieces, so do not countersink the holes for them. 

To locate the side pieces on the bottom plei'e. Draw a 
line bisecting the center line on the bottom piece. Draw 
center lines across the bottom edges of the side pieces and 
hold the parts so these lines meet. With a marking awl, mark 
through the hole in the side piece the location on the bottom 
piece for boring for the screw. 

Remove all .screws and sandpaper off all scratches and 
pencil mark.s. To obtain a good job of sanding put a few 
drops of oil on the sandpaper. 

If gum wood is used it may be stained and given a 
shellac or French polish ; or the piece may be oiled, with 
boiled linseed oil, thinned with a little turpentine. Give two 
coats of oil, allowing each to dry for twenty-four hours before 
applying the next, then finish with wax or merely by rubbing 
to a polish. 




I — w 





■^l? (: 

^'rio4 F/iSCRtVJ 











f 3" 







A silhouette is an outline or profile filled in with blacU. 
Some persons can cut profiles of people or objects from paper. 
This work is very amusing and interesting but requires 
patient practice. With the silhouette camera good results can 
be produced with little practice. 

Start work by making the bottom board, according to 
dimensions. Make the Ijack or picture plane 8"x8". 

The pedestal or 4" piece is for supporting the marking 
rod. The top edge of the pedestal should bo chamfered to 
allow the marking rod to move up and down freely. 

Three braces are needed to stiffen the picture plane and 
pedestal, which must be made very rigid in order that the 
device will work ■well. Fasten the parts together with glue 
and screws. 

The marking rod can be made from a round or square 
piece. In one end a hole is drilled about 2" deep for a piece 
of wire. The size of the hole will depend on the size of wire 
used. If you do not have a drill the size you want, make a 
drill point from a piece of the wire. In the other end of the 

rod drill a hole to fit a pencil, which must not stick in the 
hole, nor move about, but must be a sliding fit. A spring is 
to be inserted in the hole behind the pencil. One may be made 
by winding a piece of spring wire around a peg smaller than 
the hole. As the distance from the top of the pedestal to 
the plane varies during the motion of the rod the spring is 
necessary to keep the pencil point continuously against the 
plane. Fasten the rod to the pedestal as indicated, giving It 
a free up, down and sideway motion. 

To operate fasten a sheet of paper to the plane with 
thumb tacks, clamp or hold camera firmly to the table. Seat 
person in chair so wire can be passed around profile, move 
wire slowly, touching every depression. 

It will be noted that the outline is made upside dcrwn. 
Ri'move paper from plane, paste a piece of black tissue paper 
on opposite side from outline. Cut to profile line with scissors 
and paste on a piece of white mount eardlioard. Kemoving a 
section of black paper with sharp knife gives appearance of 
a collar. 



S/lhouette: Camera 




Any mother or sister will appreciate this sewing com 
panion. It is a great convenience, made to hold a thimble, 
several spools of thread and a few needles and pins. Use 
gum, mahogany, or walnut. 

J-'or the Lottom plane up a piece %"x3i/^"x7". When 
planing, marli working face and edge and make all layouts 
from these surfa''es. Draw the center lines, locate holes for 
pegs or dowel pins and bore tliein ; also a 3-lG" hole for the 
screw to fasten part A. Lay out the depression for the 
needles and pins and work out with a gouge ; finish with 

Draw the curved lines for cutting the ends and at the 
same time the H" chamfer. Saw to line with a coping saw, 
finish with a spoke shave and sandpaper. Never lay out a 
chamfer or bevel with anything but a pencil. Use a plane 
for cutting the chamfer. It is convenient to hold the work 
in a woodtn hand screw while removing the stock. 

:Make block A to hold the thimble. A peg may be 
mortised into the bottom on which to hang the thimble but 
the block is more convenient. The thimble can be put in the 
hole or taken out, as it is dropped in upside down, with one 
hand while the other is occupied holding other work. The 
sides of the block can be slanted, forming a truncated pyramid. 

Make dowels of same kind of wood. First plane a piece 
square, then plane off the corners, making it octagonal. Con- 
tinue planing corners until the piece is round. Bore a 3-16" 
hole in a piece of hard wood, if you have not a dowel plate 
with a hole this size, and drive the round stick through it, 
smoothing the edges. Cut to length and round end so spool 
will slip on easily. 

Sandpaper all parts with 00 sandpaper and assemble. 
Put a drop of glue on the end of each peg. If any glue ruus 
over on the bottom piece wipe it oflE with a damp cloth. 

Finish by rubbing with lioiled linseed oil, or stain, shellac 
and wax. 



Sewing Companion 



D£rAIL3 ,f BLOCnA 






Tho use of those garden sticks will add a loui-h to 3'our 
I'.ower box or to your flower bed in the jard and wiil be very 
interesting to you. 

No difficulty will be found in malving them. The hardest 
part is in getting good looliing outlines of the birds, and also 
to get tiieni colored attractively. Th* designs submitted here 
are only suggestive. The same may be s;aid of th(? colors. 

Choose the design that best suits you. Select the wood 
from which the stick is to be made and upon it lay out '/i-inch 
■ iiquares. Through these squares trace the outline of the bird, 
being careful that the lines pass through your squares in the 
same relative position that they pass through the squares of 
the drawing. 

It will b} well to bore the hole for the suppt)rting rod 
before the bird is cut to shape. Be very careful with this 

latter operation. No matter how carefully you have traced 
your outline, if the cutting is not done with equal care, the' 
result of your efforts will not be satisfactory. 

Smooth the piece with sandpaper and fasten tlie upright 
in place. This latter is to be of a length suitable for the place 
in which the stick is to be used. For instance, if it Is to be 
used in a flower box, it should be shorter than if it is to be 
used In the flower bed in the garden. 

Paint the bird just as well as you can. It is not neces- 
sary to use the colors suggested. If you have (lifferent or 
better ideas, put them into effect. 

Remem\)er that you can spoil a good job of consti-uc'tion 
worlt by a poor job of painting, in other words, there is no 
place in the making of these sticks that will permit of care- 
less work. 




^\ ^^ r 

MENTAL Garden sticks 

RaiNTINC SuccasTioNS 

A - Black. 
3 - Blue.. 
C - CRcaN. 
O - Red 
£ - Yellow. 
Use Slack Fop Stripinc 
Between CoLons 




To Suit. 

-■^ :£■' ^^ 

"" '="' 3 - >^' 

S'^^-i ":" ""^^ 

^ -- ^. - ^ 


^ -c ■^ a- 

"^ -^ ^ 

S S 

S^.^ _l!s^ 

^ ^^ 

- ^.. 


■^ ^ 

'^^^'~ "*N'*r--r 1 

"--■-. 1 1 JM~u)i 1 1 1 1 1 1 n 1 1 1 1 

i.j - _ -____- 

n ^ 'l ■■■■' ^v 

." a 

^ 17^ ' " 1 

i'" :sZ ::;;--- 

^jtj -^ , 2;^f?^ 

nft>l L^pHtllU^ 

^y c I \ 1 v\ 

[ ^5. ■-:2._ - 

e^-'^--^^Ai»j : ; 

>l ' -hpf 

^^5^" ?i.X^. . t- 

_L _i^ zi 

2E^^ a-.i'' ' 

•\ ' ^^Zl _ 

A'^i f : 

\ - -^s -- -- 

^ I' 

^^ _?s^ 

t- v^ 

---^-r-- = :!t5>.- 

' _S^ 


^ 1 




This slinpli' trail has a bottom, two sUlos and a door, 
with a tin can fastened to the l)ottoni lietween the two sides. 

The door Is made as shown in the drawing and hinged 
to sides by two 9i" brads. The door stop is fastened to the 
door 1-16" from bottom, with 1-inch lirads driven through 
stop and door and clinched on inside of the latter. A screw 
eye is screwed into one end of the door stop, another al)out 
IV2" from the back of one side, and a rubber band stretched 
between. This acts as a spring and closes the door when the 
hooli is released by the mouse pulling at the bait. The hook 
driven in the top of the door is made as follows : Drive a 
1%" No. 18 brad in place, cut off the head with a pair of 
pUers er file, and with the pliers bend as shown. 

The information for niaking bottom and sides can be 
easilj' learned from the dra\\'ing. Assi'jnble with 1-inch brads. 

The can used for this trap was a baking powder can, and 
to fit the dimensions given, must be three inches io diameter 

antl five Inches deep. If you wish to use a larger can, increase 
the iliniensions of the other parts of the trap accordingly. 

Fasten can to trap by brads driven through floor and 
can stop, through th;* can, and clinched inside the can. The 
can stop is to be fastened to the floor with %" brads. 

The bait hook is made of heavy wire, foraied as shown. 
Use pliers to hold wire while bending. Make a hole in the 
bottom of the can for the bait hook with a wire nail a littli? 
larger gage than the wire. The door can be made to close 
from the slightest touch on the bait hook if the book driven 
into the top of the door is adjusted at Just the right angle. 
It a piece of tin is tacked on the door directly in front of 
the can opening, the mouse will not be able to gnaw his way 
out through the wood door. A boy who understands how to 
wire au electric bell can connect one to the trap so he will 
be notified when the mouse is caught. 



Trap OfCtn 

VJiR£ Hook 





Mouse trap 


- .-J?-- 


Trap Closed 




lliis proj'-'-l. If 
wheels, iKilstcrs 


Any goj(l wood may bo us;ed fur 
have a choice, use hard wood for the 

Make the box first. Be suie to get all your corners 
square. Asseniblt- with sixpenny coinnion nnlls. JIark center 
for the hole to be bored for carriage bolt, but leave the boring 
until other holes of same size are to 1h' I)ored. 

Next get out the bolsters and axles, marldng the centers 
of the holes. Part C will require careful work in laying out. 
Bore hole for the carriage bolt before cutting the tongue 

Make the tongue next and mark locations for holes to be 
bored. The next step can well be the boring of .the various 
holes, the locations for which you have already made. Holes 
that go clear through a piece should be laid out and bored 
from both sides. In boring for screws, remember that two 
sizes should be made — one for shank of screw and the other 
for diameter at bottom of threads. 

The hardest part of the construction will In- Ibe making 
nf the wheels. If you have access to a turning lathe, the work 
will be easy. Wheels formed according to the drawing look 
better than those with flat surfaces, but if they cannot be 
made that way, make them flat. If lathe and Itand saw are 
not available, lay out with a pair of sharp dividers, scoring 
deeply. Saw as near the line as possible, finishing with a 
rasp. The wheels may be hollowed ovit with a gouge. Just a 
bit of patience and care is all that is required. When all 
parts are made, assemble and test for proper fitting. Take 
apart and sand well. The painting may be done before or 
after the parts are finally put together. Sometimes it is more 
convenient to paint each piece separately. 

Give considerable thought to the color scheme you will 
use. It is not recommended that you use a great many differ- 
ent colors, but your cart will look better if you use at least 
two. This gives a nice contrast. No color scheme is sug- 
gested, as tastes vary a great deal, so this part of the work 
is left to each individual to solve to his own satisfaction. 



Boys H/^ndy W/jcon. 


OoftE Fan ^ 

C^ftai^ce Bolt 

'^- -'j.?~- .„--,- > -■'■■' 

BoKe ro-' " 




The luattTi-il for this case shoiiUl be a very ycuxl quality 
of wood. .Walnut Is very attractivo and is recommended for 
use If it is possii)le for you to secure it. The application of 
linseed oil and later a thin coat of shellac, rubbed down 
with very fine sandpaper, will give a very pleasing finish. 

An examination of thi- dniwinj,' will shojiv that thi' front 
part of the box is not parallel with the back part. The ends 
are square witli the bacli. but thi* front makes a small angle 
with them. It will require careful work to get good joints, 
and the attractiveness of the box is dependent upon the 
quality of your work. 

From the drawing it will lie seen that the bottom is \i" 
thick, 1%" wide- at one end and 1%" wide at the other, and 
7" long. The ends are square with the back edge. Reduce 
this piece to the required dimensions, and then the side pieces, 
front and back. It will be well to fasten these pieces tempo- 
rarily in place in order to fit the end pieces. The dimensions 
for these latter pieces, and for the partition A, are given 

slightly oversize in order that you may have a small margin 
for fitting. Fit them very carefully, remembering the caution 
given above regarding the attractiveness of the box. Part C 
will also have to be fitted with care, and to assist you, the 
dimensions shown are slightly larger on one side. The hole 
in this part is cut on a slant to give the thimble a better 
support. No special suggestions are needed with regard to 
this piece, or with any of the remaining pieces that go to 
make up the case. 

Small hinges are used between the box and the cover, and 
as the material is so thin, a hinge should be selected that can 
be fastened in the manner shown on the drawing. 

A piece of cardboard covered with velvet and glued to 
the cover provides the means for holding the scissors and 

The thread is held in accordance with the explanation 
given in the note — the small spool at the left end and the 
others placed in the order of their size. ' 




I- Cut To Th/J Dim^n3/on For D, 
Then Pl/ine Bevel To Fit 

Travelers case. 

j — cardboaro 
Covered With 
'i)? Clued To 

Cut To 
For -A AND 0, 
Then Plane 
Bevel To Fit 


5 POOLS AfiE Held In 
Position By Means Of 
A Silk Shoe Strino 
Or Ribbon Threaded 
Throl/oh Them ,Ano Thc 
HoL£s In The Box. The 
Cover Is Held Closso 
By TyiNo £nos Of 
Ribbon Around Boh 


iToP View Shows Cover 
Turned Back 

Starting At Left End Of 

4 Drill -IO Holes 
Section On XV 

Cut To ThesE 
Dimensions , 
Then Plane 
To Fit. 

Box, Place /OO, SO, 60 and 50 Cottoiv^ And 50 Black , In That Order 




Fij;ure 1 shows a spool tick-tack, ma;le by cuUiug uotrh''s 
on ends of a spool. Fasten to a handle about two feet long. 
Tie one end of string to spool and wind the rest around it. 
Hold handle in left hand and end of string in right. Press 
edges of spool iigainst window pane and pull string, caiisini; 
spool to revolve, thus making desired disturbance. 

Another type is shown in Figure 5. It is fastened to 
window pane by wetting and pressing against it. The rubber 
tUsk can be obtained by breaking neck of old style pop bottle 
and slipping it oflF the closing fixture. Use any flat-head 
screw. Fasten to window pane, then jerk knots between first 
finger and thumb nail. 

Figures 3 and 4 are lanterns, made of paper shoe boxes 
and tin cans or paint pails. Paste colored paper over nose, 
mouth and eyes, so candle cannot be seen. Punch holes on 
back, sides, top or bottom, otherwise candle wiil soon burn 
nut. Figure 3 shows a method of keeping cover on box anrl 
also how to make an eye wink by making a shutter from card- 
board, a njbber band, a paper fastener v,ud a piece of string. 

For Figure (I take a shingle nail and drive through bottom 
of can at center. Tie a piece of string three feet long to nail. 
Thread other en<i through hole from inside of can. Tie knots 
near end of string and rub rosin into it. Hold can in left 
hand and draw knots through thumb and first finger. 

Figure 7 is the snake trick. Use an old stocking stuffed 
with grass, and a piece of strong twine. Throw over limb of 
a tree and drop from above, or draw across sidewalk. 

Prepare for Figure 2 befor.* dark. Drive a nail in top 
of window frame. Tie a piece of black thread to nail, ari<l 
a button on thread about IS" from nail. After dark climlt 
up in a tree with thread in h^nd. Let button swing against 
window. If anyone opens window, draw button iip out of 
sight. The horseshoe nail trick is worked the same as Figure 
G, only a longer and stronger cord is required. The end of 
horseshoe nail is slipped under the edge of clapl)oard on 
house, and if plenty of rosin is rubbed on cord, the owner 
will soon think every board Is being ripped from his house. 

PLATE fi- 

F,q I 

Hallowe"£:n Fun Makers 

F,q S 





St fin f-^ ^' 

Ro3irr»n<i Knots 

Rubber Bottle 


Rosm ^ Knofs, 

■ \ 

Point Po// 

fi3 4- 




A common tcn-cciit storo roping sav/ ami a goovi -sliarp 
Jacl! knife are all the tools rciiuircd to make this toy. 

Select two straight srainod pieces for the blades. Lay 
I'lit with a pencil, and after cutting the half lap joints, form 
the blades to shape indicated. Fasten together with iirads, 
and also brad a block on the back of mill for the small pulley. 
Drill a small hole at center of mill for a nail or a screw. 
The hole should be large enough to permit the mill to turn 
freely. An empty buttonhole twist spool may be used for 
the pulley, or it can be made. With a Jacli'knife i-i,",iie grooves 
for the lielt, then fasten to the block. Next make the vane 
and the piece that holds it. Fasten together with lirads. 

Make the parts that hold the pulley shaft in place, hut 
do not fasten in position until the shaft is made and fitted to 
them. The shaft will require careful and accurate work with 
the knife. 

Work nut larce inilley and make thi' hole in it such a size 
that it will mak-> a press tit on the shaft, .\sscmble parts 

just made and fasten in iiIm'-c so [)ulieys are in line; that is, 
one exactly above the other. 

Make the parts for the man next. These may be made 
from cigar bo.-;es if desired. Lay oH squares and trace in the 
■ atterns. Cut to shape with coping saw and fasten together 
with wire or long Iiank pins. The parts should fit loosely. 

After assembling all parts, mount on the upright piece at 
the point of balance. A rubber liand will make a good belt 
for tile pulleys, as thr- rain will not aiTect it. If necessary to 
use cotton string, rub beeswax or paraffine on it. 

All the bearings should 1)0 well oiled to i)ro(luce good 
action and do away with as miu-h friction as possiId(\ The 
parts can be painted to suit, but be careful that no paint gets 
lietwoen any of the moving parts. 

Mount windmill on the peak of a shed or top of any post 
that is located out in the open so the wind can get a good 
chance to turn the blades. The antics will be highly amusing 
to your friends and to yourself. 



\NiND Mill And Acrob/\t 


G\ .■ BO 









* f 










^ 1 




/ \ 


\ ' 

\ * 

', . 








V — 




Pulley Shaft 



Small Pulley _ 





Use any wood you have at your disposal, hut get as 
straight grained wood for the uprights as you can. 

Make the base first. The mortises should be laid out and 
cut from both sides of the piece. Unless this method Is fol- 
lowed the mortises will not l)e straight through. 

Parts B are not hard to make. The tenons cut on these 
pieces are to fit the mortises in A, so lay out and cut them 

Part C is always easy to make. In laying out all these 
pieces thus far, remember that they should be laid out accord- 
ing to the way the dimensions read on the drawing; ihat Is, 
from the center of the piece. 

The hardest part of the t-onstruction will be the making 
of the pin. If you have a turning lathe, the job will be very 
easy, but as most boys do not have one available, it will have 
to be fashioned by other means. It will not be difficult to 
plane a piece to lYj Inches in diameter. On u piece the 

required length, describe two IMs" circles, one on each end. 
Also on one end, with same center, describe a circle 1 inch 
in diameter. Plane off the stock until .you have a cylinder 
1% Inches diameter. From this step it will be necessary to 
work with a good sharp knife. Good work cau be accom- 
plished by combining a little patience and care. 

Sand well and assemble. Place uprights In mortises anil 
fasten C to the tops by means of l>rads. The piece may be 
stained or painted as desired. 

The ball to be used may be a rubber or a wooden one. 
Insert a screw eye as shown, and adjust string to such a 
length that the ball will strike the round top of the pin 
about in the center. 

It will very likely seem easy to knock the pin over with 
the ball, and no doul)t it would be easy if the aim was to 
knock it over on the forward swing. But that is not the Idea. 
The ball Is to be drawn toward yi>u, then released so the pin 
is knocked down on the return swing. Try It. 



^ M/3TCM 

But Without Pin tr~j PL^ace 

L * O • 



■ 3 TRINO 


Pin xn^D Bajll Gajme . 

(/}) t1/^nl Out 

(S) MftKt Two 





— \i\- 


7b OPCfvoTt - pL^ct. Pin 


dacLt Pull Bo^u. fof*- 
\WiRO ^/vD RELt^St 

So ir 5 rmtHC s f^^ 
Qv Return Sw/mq 


Af/g T£ftl^L — 
>7/VK Coco V^/OQO 




-lyt 'szi^ 

flAKt OK 




The making of this iiioilol will rcquiro thir exercise of 
somo Inilividual tliouglit on tlic ii;irt uf the niaki i-. The gen- 
eral (liincnsiiins are very ilearly shown, but the shaping of 
the hull will require thi' expression of inilividual thought. 

The making of the hull shouM n-ceive attention first. 
Selei-t a light wood, as strai.!;ht grained as possible to permit 
of ease in forming to shape. A solid piece may Iic'used, but 
if this is not available, the hull may be built up of several 
pieces as shown in the drawing. Get out the stock to the 
overall dimensions, then lay out the shape. The part to be 
removed in the center is shown by the dotted lines in the 
front and end views. The section view will alsb assist in 
understanding the shape desired. The removal of this stock 
will be of material service in lightening the boat. The Ulimen- 
sions for the outline of the hull will be found in the view 
immediately above the front view. This gives the dimensions 
for the shape crosswise of the hull. The other necessary 
dimensions will be found in the other views. When your hull 

is shaped to .vtuir satisfaction, 
tain rod. 

bore the bcrle lor the 

Parts B, I'", (i and II should be given carel'iil atleiitioo. 
They should be made Just as round as it is possible to make 
them. Do not slight these parts. Part D will be found more 
diflicult than those just mentioned and will require the skillful 
use of a sharp knife. Part C is made from wire, carefully 
twisted, as shown in the detail drawing. The rudder post 
should be made so it will lit the hollow curtain pole, but 
loosely enough to permit it to turn. The method of holding 
G and II together is shown right near the assembly of these 
parts,^ — by means of a piece of wire twisted lo the shape of 
a figure eight. 

The assembling of the parts can be easily understood 
from the drawing. To preserve the boat, and also to add to 
its attractiveness, it should be well painted. The color scheme 
is to be left to the personal taste of the one who makes 
the boat. 





This is an exceedingly fine piece to add to the home. 
The comfort derived from its u.?e will amply repay one for 
the time spent in its construction. 

First, make the upright. Select two pieces of wood of 
required thickness, get tint; out the width to about Vo-inch 
more than finished size. Smooth one broad surface and 
square one edge only on each piece. If you have a combina- 
tion plane, the grooves in the center can be easily made, but 
as you will not likely have this tool at hand, another method 
will have to W used. From the edges just squared up, gage 
lines on the smooth surface the required distance from edge, 
so the ^^roove will I e in the center when finished. Gage 
deeply as possible. Chisel out the groove to required depth — 
3-lGth-inch in each pip<'e. Next slightly roughen the edges 
that are to join. When ready, apply glut*, clamp together and 
set away to dry. 

While waiting for the upright, make a pattern for the 
supports. Lny out on wood selected for them and with a 

turning saw cut them to shape. It will be well, however, lu 
locate and bore holes for' the dowels before the cutting to 
shape is done. This will give good, sharp edges oli tin- 
slanting edge. 

Next make the cap, then take up unfinished work on up 
right. First square up to largest dimensions and then lay 
out and plane taper. Lay out and bore holes for dowels. 
After this, assemble the parts and make any necessary adjust- 
ments at this time. When done to your satisfLutiiiu, sand all 
pieces very carefully. 

If oak Is used, or any other wood that will take a stain 
satisfactorily, select stain you wish and apply It, finishing 
with a thin coat of shellac and wax. If soft wood Is used, 
thn lamp may be painted. 

The electrical fixtures can be secured from any electrical 
supply store. 

PLATE fir. 


Chair Lamp. 

staff - maKc one 

Sup par i- 
HaHe four 



f^ake one " 




. to fit 

' -i 




Two typi'S of joints arc usoil in tlic i-onstriK-tiuu of this 
leg rest. Both ni'ed careful work in layiug out anil cutting. 
The one on part A is called a keyed mortise and tenon, while 
the one at thi' top of part I> is called a housed or dodo joint. 

Make out your lumber liill and proceed to get out yuuj- 
stock to required dimensions. Parts 13 and (.' can he reduced 
to size at once. Part A should be an inch or more longer 
than the finished piece, (iet out part D to length and to 
the greater width, leaving the taper tj be planed later. 

Use a knife and gage in laying out the various joints — 
the knife across grain and the gage with grain. Lay out the 
mortises first in part D into which the tenons on part A fit. 
At the same time lay out the groove for the end of \. Cut 
first the mortises that go clear through parts D, then cut 
groove for the housed joint. Mortises that go clear through 
a piece should be laid out on both sides, to insure the cutting 
being straight. Next lay out and cut the groove at top of D 
for the ends of B. 

r.c careful in layiug out the tenon and the small mortise 
ill the ends of A. Remembering that the stock is lougi-r tlian 
the finished size, all work should be iaitl out from the center 
of the piece lengthwise. After cutting is done and the fit 
satisfactory, the excess stock may be removed, it being left 
on to prevent .splittinj; o;' wood when fitting joint. ENamine 
carefully details relating to joint at Y. No trouble should be 
experienced with this if drawing of parts is carefully studied. 

When all parts have been cut to size, test by fitting them 
together. When satisfied with them, take apart, lay out ami 
cut the taper on parts D. Next lay out and cut the chamfers 
which extend entirely around outside edges only. Sand- 
paper well. 

If oak is used, apply stain and finish with a thin coat of 
shellac and then wax. S-'hould you be fortunate enough to 
have walnut to make the piece from, apply boiled linseed oil 
thinned slightly with turpentine, which will make it penetrate 
better. When dry, apply a, thin coat of shellac. Sandpaper 
slightly and wax. 

I'LATE 1,7 


. L 


Leg Rest 


CQ of Aey 












/A ' 





Dctail of mortise 
and tenon at A. 




A coping saw or a turning saw will be nordi'il for tlii> 
work. A power band saw would permit of the work being 
done more easily, but most boys have not this tool availabii'. 

It will first be necessary to lay out patterns for different 
parts. This is don>' liy means of the Vi-inoh squares as shown. 
Make your patterns with care, for successful work will depend 
upon h'jw well the parts are shaped. Be sure to locate on 
patterns points at which holes for screws are to he liored and 
transfer these accurately to the stock itself. In this way it 
will be possible to have the locations of the various holes 
made unitormly so that when the legs and ears are fastened 
in place, they will work correctly. 

When your patterns are laid out to your satisfaction, 
transfer them to stock from which parts are to be made. Ne.xt 
cut to shape, being careful to follow lines of pattern. 

Round-head screws are to be used for fastening legs and 
ears to body. Select size you will use and then bore holes of 
proper size for them. A double end or dowel screw is used 
lo fasten heed and collar to body. Ordinary screws may be 

uscil, but it will be found much more convenient to use 
double end kind. This is first tnrne<l into place in body, then 
<<»Ilar is slipped over it and fastened with a couple of brads 
to keep it from turning, then head is turned on end of screw 
that projects from body. 

Washers should be used between legs and body, also be- 
tween ears and body. It will be well to have washers between 
head of the .screw and legs and ears. When all parts are 
ready, assemble and test. If everything is all right, measure 
distance between legs. Lay out grooves on cart according 
to this measurement. 

Next make cart, laying out grooves as above stated. The 
fit of legs in grooves should be snug enough to hold dog in 
position. Wheels should be carefully laid out and cut, as it 
is Important that they be perfectly round. If desired, large 
wooden button forms may be bought at a department store 
and used for wheels. When all parts are well sanded, painting 
is next in order. Take dog and cart apart for this operation. 
L'se scheme suggested on drawing. 



r^Af^E One 

Bull Dog 

Make Two 

Fa^teaj Collar A/^d Head 

To BoDf Wi'TH Double q 

End Schew 

— Paint — 
Dog-White, ^pot Olack 
Caat ■ Red. 

tiAH£ GfioovMS To Fit CortPttTeo Do& 
* ^ 

sA/ASHEfi I'-RJ-I. Screw I^Qta 



The Christmas tree stand is to be painted either red or The parts can be fast,*ned together with screws or nails, 

green, and so anj' scraps of wood may be used — even pieces as yon wish. 

with linots, as tlie paint will cover them. . ■ , ^ „ 

I'lane a piece long enough to make all four feet, part B, 

One edge and the end that Joins the other part imist 1)h and then cut to length. The feet are fastened to the other 

absolutely square to produce a good job. parts with bi'ads. 

Plane up all tour pieces to size, and then cut the corners If the tree is too large In til hole, cut so it will fit, ami 

according to the drawing. if too small make wedges to fit corners. 



Christm/is Tree St/^nd 








PfiRT B 




This car was designed for a small child, especially one 
who is not old enough to guide the ordinary three-wheeled 
oar without tipping it over. Steering handle of car only 
allows frout wheels to turn a certain distance, because then 
it strikes the side of hood, and in this position the car can- 
n*t turn over. 

When being pushed about the living rooms it cannot mar 
the furniture. The child's legs protect any object the side of 
the car is likely to touch, the bumper covered with a rubber 
hose protects objects that the front might come in contact 
with, and the front wheels are set back of bumper. 

A young child soon gets tired propelling a car and by 
slipping in place the handle fastened with a stove bolt, the 
attendant can pull the oar as she would any cart. As the 
child grows, the car can be raised by substituting larger 

Soft wood may be imeri for all parts, but it is suggested 
that axles and wheels be made of' hardwood. 

Hole for steering gear can be bored with an expansive bit 

or cut with a key-hole saw. Fasten together parts of the 
steering gear and steering handle with scre\ys. 

Fasten wheels to axles with i^-itnt-h lag screws. Placf 
a washer between head of screw and wheel, also between 
wheel and axle. 

The 36-inch handl- is fastened to front axle with common 
iron angfle irons. 

Paint seat and wheels red, hood black and stripe wheels 
and hood with yellow. Other combinations of colors may be 



Baby Au to Car 


Pattbrn of Hoop , \_ 4- ^ Front Axle 




^ ' -'" -(hi-' 

Stecrinq Part 

^V^.'i 1^- 

H'4i^ .. I 

S^ Axle 







For the fly trap, first make corner popts wliirh are LI 
inches long. Next make the bottom board, cut out center and 
also cornere for posts. Now make the four top rails to bn 
nailed to the upper ends of posts. 

Lay out on paper the cone pattern and cut. Place pat- 
tern on wire cloth and cut cloth. Lace edges of wire cloth 
together with a piece of wire drawn from wire cloth, form- 
ing cone. 

Fasten wire cone to bottom board with tacks. Use a 
two or three-ounce tack. Nail bottom board in place and then 
the top rails. 

f'nver trap with win- » lotli, jr)iTiing the ends on one 
corner post. 

Make the top board. This piece must be fastened so it 
can easily be removed to empty the dead flies. 

Set trap where flies are noticeable, placing a saucer of 
sua;ar and water or other material attractive to flies under 
opening in the bottom board. The flies will crawl under trap 
to feed, and after feeding will fly up on cone instead of going 
out as they came. They will walk up to the small opening 
ill point of rone and throuiih it into the trap. Not Iteing able 
to find the opening through which they came, they are caught 
for your disposal. 



Fly Trap 

Bottom Bo/iRD 




Plant boxes are subjected to the action of much moisture, 
and for this reason a material should be chosen that will 
resist this action as much as possible. Cypress more than 
any other wood will fulfill this requirement, and if it is pos- 
sible to secure it, should be used. 

No great difficulty will be encountered In making this box. 
The making of two slots in the ends for hand-holds will be 
best accomplished by first boring holes of the right size for 
the ends of slots and removing remainder of material with a 

Holes should be bored in the bottom to provide a means 
for the surplus water to escape when contents of the box are 

Assembling should be very carefully done. It is recom- 
mended that screws be used for fastening all parts together — 
llat-head screws for bottom and round-head screws for sides. 
Notice direction of rings of growth in side, pieces and fasten 
them to end supports so the crown of the board, which will 
result when it warps, will be out. If it is placed so the 
crown is in. the warping of pieces will cause top and bottom 
edges to curl outward, destroying the neat appearance of 
the box. 

Boxes should be painted first, as a matter of appearance 
and second, to aid in resisting the action of the weather, i 
(lark shade of green paint will give excellent results. 






For the submarine select a soft piece of pine wood. With 
a good sharp knife whittle parts F and G from a piece aljout 
10 inches lon^. They can I)c sawed to proper length after 
they have been formed, and by cutting them from a long 
piece enough stock is availalile for holding while whittling. 

Bore hole through part F for wire. Now cut part A 
from any tin can. bend and tadi to parts just made. Maite 
ports C and D of wood and fasten with tacks to A. 

Drive brad as indicated by dotted lines in part G and 
bend head, making hook for rubber band. Bend wire and 
place in part F, after which propeller is soldered to it. Do 

not forget to place glass bead between propeller and part 
F before soldering propeller to wire. Hook a rubber band to 
end of wire and also to l)rad bent for this purpose. 

Make keel, part B. and tac'k in place. Also rudder E. 

Paint niod<'l to keep tin from rusting and wood from 
soaking water. ' 

To operate submarine hold in hand and wind propeller 
by handle. When rubber band is wound tight, and rudder 
is s<'t, place in water, and it w'ili dive. The angle will depend 
on the angle at which rudder is bent. 

PLATE ri! 



Rudder E 

hi) I 






/r^/. a 


Pefisce pe 
L i'j Woorf 


.^ ^la^^o ---i N 

^ z 

% e-<o^-^v>'a^'^^^'<M£!'^* «&•«»> -1 

' laf^e Rub^ef Bond 

Solder Vlire To Propeller 

P/^ar A 


L y-^ . 






The phonograph Uanocr Is not hard to make although it 
must bo construotf'd accurately to work well. 

First make Ijoard to which blocks are fastened; it may 
be made of cigar box lumber. Next make blocks and fasten 
In place with cigar box nails. The blocks are lettered D and E. 

Now bore a hole through either a square or round piece 

C to fit a meat skewer, which usually comes with a roast and 

is the shape and size of a slate pencil. Bore a hole in the 
bottom board to receive C and glue it in place. 

Make part A. cutting with a jack knife. Bore a hole at 
-center, that tits the spindle that holds the phonograph record. 

The spindle must lit hole tightly. ^lake peg V. and glue in 
the bottom board. It must fit in A loosely. 

Cut a clothes pin for body of the man as shown In the 
drawing, and l>ore a hole in which to glue the skewer stick. 
Make arms and legs of cardtioard and fasten to body ^\ith 
cigar box nails. 

Pa;nt all parts with water colors. A poor job of painting 
may spoil the appearance of the dancer. 

To operate, place record on spiuiUc. Place part A on 
spindle and pi'g B in hole with D resting on box outside of 
revolving record. Now drop end of skewer in C and as the 
point runs up and down in cuts made in A the man will danco 
and cut all kinds jf funny capers. 






An article of this kind should he rather delkato lu appear 
ance, and for this reason the stock used is but %-lnch thick. 
This Is thin enough to look well, and yet will permit of sul) 
stantlal construction. 

The kind of material to be used will depend upon thi' 
hnlsh jou wish to give it. Staining and painting are both 
attractive. If it is to be stained, a wood having an interest 
ing grain should be used. If painting is to be the finishing 
method, a wood with little or no grain may I)e used. 

Get out all the pieces to the greatest dimensions Indi- 
cated. Pieces that have edges that are not parallel to each 
other should lie cut to shape after assembling is done. All 
Joints are to be half lap. These are not difficult to make and 
good results should be attained. Lay out and cut them very 
accurately. W'h'^n you think the work is sati.sfactorily done, 
put parts together, and cut out inside corners to fit pamus to 
be used. No dimension is shown for this, as depth of cut will 
depend upon kind of panel usid. For instance, if cardboard 

covered with silk is used, depth will likely be less than an 
eighth of an inch. Decide upon what material you wish to 
use, and then cut the groove accordingly. 

When all parts fit well, sand and glue together. The stock 
is so thin that brads cau hardly l>e used, so pieces will have 
to he clamped together until dry. When glue has set, the- 
two side pieces should be cut to match slant at top of main 
section. Sand any rough places and then fit the hinges. 
Staining can be done w"ith the hinges in place, or they may 
be removed. 

Finishing should be such as to match the material used 
for the panels. Staining or painting is satisfactory. The 
screen from which this drawing was made hail a panel of silk 
with a .lapanese effect. There were Ifiack spots in design, body 
lieing yellow. Black enamel was used on frame and inside of 
hand-hold at top was painted yellow. The effect was very 
pleasing. A little study will bring out many possibilities. 



Section Throuoh AB 

Telephone, screen. 

Or 3t/>in 
Frame To 
Suit Kind 
Of Wood 
And P^ncl 

P-ANELS M ay- 
Be Cardboard Cove red With 
Fabric, Or Thin Wood 

Hake Depth 
Suitable To 
A Panel Used 

This ScREtN 
■SiiirAOL£ To 
MANf Othkr 
Uaes . 

y^LL Joints Half Lap 

£3 SeCTloi^ TJ-iRouoH CD 


Aeroplaue Weathervuue, 64, 65. 

Baby Auto Car, 142, 143. 

Baby's Rocking Horse, 70, 71. 

Bag runclier, lOS, 109. 

Bath Kooni Cup Holder, 4«, 47. 

Bits and Drilis, 21, 22. 

Bob Sled, SO, SI. 

Boy's Handy Wagon, 122, 123. 

Boy Scout's Heliograph Outfit, 04, 95. 

Brads, Screws and Fastenings. 23, 24. 

Bull Dog. 138. 139. 

Chair Lamp, 134, 133. 
Child's Morris Chair. 40, 41. 
Child's Snow Shovel, 98, 99. 
Christmas Tree Stand, 140, 141. 
Combination Bench Hook, 30, 37. 
Common Joints, 10, 13. 
Commonly Used Hardware. 15-20. 
Construction Problems. 10. 12. 
Crumb Tray, 84, 85. 
Cutting Board, 42, 43. 

Feeding Bird, 54, 55. 
Finish, 25. 
Fly Trap, 144, 145. 
Flying Propeller, 56, 57. 

Ground Scratcher. 9(j, 97. 

Hallowe'en Fun Makers, 120, 127. 
High Speed Drill, S2. S3. 
Hula Dancers, 71, 75. 

Jack Be Nimble, 92, 93. 
.Tumping .Tack, 72, 73. 

Kites, 100, 1(11. 

Laying-Oul Tools, 26. 27. 
Leg Kest, 130, l.'i7. 
Letter Hack, 112, 113. 
Low Folding Table. 110, 111. 
Lumber, S. 

Mechanical Duck, 76, 77. 
Mouse Trap, 120, 121. 

Ornamental Garden Sticks. 118. 119. 

Personal Equipment. 8, 9. 
Phonograph Dancer, 150, 151. 
Pin and Ball Game, 130, 1.31. 
Planes, 28, .31. 

Planing and Scoring llnles, 30, 33. 
Plant Box, 140, 147. 
Potato Gun, 5S, 59. 
Puzzles, 102, 103. 

Ued Cross Amtiulaiue. 6.8, 69. 

Sail Boat. 132. 1.'53. 
Sandpai)er and Finish, 25. 
Saws, 28. 29. 

Scoring Uulea, 32. 

Scout Flrenmktng Set, iS. 71). 

Sewing Companion. 110. 117. 

Shop Kinks and Informallou, l.*> 

Shop Notes iinil Kll(|U<'tte, 7. 

Silhouette Camorn, 111. ll.'i. 

Simple and Sonlcinlilc King Uuldcr, 

88, S7. 
Skate Sharpener, 4s. i<j. 
Small Carl. 00, 07. 
Standanls ami ronviMillonii. 10. II. 
Steam Engine. 50. .11. 
Straddle Ilorse. 106, 107 
Subnnirlne. 148. vp.i 

Target Pistol, 90. 91. 

Telephone Screen. 152, 153. 

Thanksgiving C... I. bier, 62, 03. 

Tools, H, 10. 

Toy Cannon, 44. 4.5. 

Toy Elephant. 52. 53. 

Toy Pig, 38, 39. 

Toy Rabbit, 88. SO. 

Traveler's Case. 124, 125. 

Trench Mortar. 101. 105. 

Wind Mill and Acrobat, 128, r21). 
Wooden Doll. 00, 01. 
Work Bench, 34, 35. 



Contents of Books II and III 

•Jig Saw 
Wren House 
Feeding Tray 
Easter Chickens 
Work Bench 
Hissing Uaveu 
Turning Saw 
Easter Toy 
Baby's Bed 
Child's Toilet Seat 
Bow Gun 
Laundry Box 
Invalid's Table 
Little K.J Hen 
Drawing Table 
Umbrella Stand 
Fly Swatters 
Doll Costumer 
Sword and Gun 
Grocery List 
Clock Case 
Double Windmill 
Glider SHng Shot 
Jumping Jack 
Smoking Cabinet 
Toy A^'heelbarrow 
Turning Lathe 
Blue Bird House 

Dressing Table 
Shoe Shine Cabinet 

Test Tube Hack 
Fire Side Bench 
Christmas Tree Table 
Floor Lamp 
Nursery Chair 
Box Wheelbarrow 
Mail Box Automatic 
Doctor Quack 
Mule and Kider 
Toy Wagon 
Salt Shaker Holder 
Toy Wheelbarrow- 
Game of Hearts 
Dart Game 
Flour Box 
Tonel Rack 
Bread Board 
Bingo Stick 
Wood Pincers 
String Winder and Cutter 
Scout's Belt Kit 
Door Weight 
Martin Plouse 
Sewing Cabinet 
Toy Giral'fe 
Drill Tress 
Ttimbling Toby 

Typewriter Table 
Toy Box 
Book Ends 
Fireless Cooker Support 

Japanese Chair 

Fighting Bull Dogs 

Tea Shooter 

Doll Cradle 

Tin Can Engine 

Dancing Jim 

Nail Box 

Newspaper Hohler 

Bird Houses 

Cold Box 

Robin and Wren Box 

Match Box 

Piano Bench 

Child's Coloniiil Chair and 

Marble Game 
Pencil Box 
^^'indow■ Screen 
Lemonade Stand 
Frame for Child's .>wing 
Paint Remover 
Doll Costumer 
Book Trough 
Doll's High Chair 
Toy Goat 
Baby's Bed 
String Winder 
Match Box 
Auto Creeper 
Teddy Bear Blacksmiths 

Plant Box 

Sidewalk Coaster 


Foot Bench 

Bob Sled 

Arm Chair 

Magazine Stand 

Dutch Windmill 

Candle Holder and Bank 

Shoe Polishing Stand 


How to Can? a Seat 

Doll Cab 

Tooth Pick Toys 

Game of Hearts 

Book Trough and Shelf 

George Washingti-n Toy 

Christmas Tree Table 

Shoe Brush Holder 

Watch Holder 

Ball Holder 

Sling Shot Glider 

Waten Gun 

Doll Cradle 

Window Ventilator 

Fourth ot July Outfit 


Doll House 

Turning Saw 

Tooth 7'asteand Brush Holder 


Tin Lined Plant Box 


Contents of Books II and III — Concluded 

Flag Holder Solitaire Auto Tnii-k Hook Siipporm 

Sewinf? Cciniiiiun.m Child's Tea Cart Broinii Holder Mlknd" I'liizli- 

Fire Side Seat Scarf Pin Holder Clirlslniaa Uei ■iriilimi TrclllB 

Tool Case Lap Board T.ihnrith Dart niid Tnrp't <;nii.p 

Child's Wash Beiieh Medicine Caliinet Kat Trap DoH'k Swlnc 

Doll Bed Picture Krame Towel Holder And I'life'eii of Inforuiiitlon 

Taint and Shellac Can Armoured Car Clocli Case 

Thesa projects can be had in card form for class work. 

They are put up in sets, a list of which will be sent 
on application. 

The Uiucf Publishing Co., Milwaukee. Wis. 


Los Angeles 
This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. 

NOV 2 41986 

3 1158 01126 4511 

6 000 

003 246